AutoX @ Orange County Convention Center hosted by Central Florida Region SCCA on Oct 22nd 2011.

This is my first run of the day, and there is no question I got lost. You’ll notice I nearly come to a stand still after one of the chicago boxes. I was looking ahead and I was unsure of which way to go. Luckily I chose the right direction. Final time for the run was 55.958 my slowest by time by over 9 seconds. I also was playing with wind noise reduction today, gain is set below 10 and I taped some microphone foam over the microphone. Its an improvement over nothing, but it isn’t perfect yet. As you’ll see there were a few cones in my way I decided to run over, i took one of them all the way back to grid.

Click, more to see the other videos. Be sure to click through to the Contour site to see them full screen!

The first run was not confidence inspiring by any means, it was actually pretty painful. I took a few minutes between runs to watch other cars go thru the section I had issues with. This helped alot, I was able to correct many of my mistakes. This run was a 49.022 clean, in my head after this run I kept hearing my friend Aaron telling me to use the gas pedal more and get a little closer to the cones. I knew there was more time left on the course. I was excited for run #3 to say the least.

Run #3, lets call this Run #Iwenttoofasttryingtobefasterandhitsomecones. I tried a more aggressive line in the start and the car got a little sideways, it was fun but SLOW. I ended up hitting a few cones again (3 at least) yet my raw time was the fastest yet of a 49.007. This means one thing, I’m leaving A LOT on the table. After the run I talked to a few fellow competitors to get suggestions about the section where I kept hitting cones. Most said “I’m having issues too”, best one was “slow down”. I listened to him, time for run #4.

Run #4, time to go fast. This run was very fun, unfortunately it appears I bumped the camera prior to the run and it’s not aligned as well. Run #4 was my fastest run of the day for me with a 46.447 clean.

Not only did we have awesome weather and a well run event, we got more than 4 runs! Here is run #5. After my fast run #4 I over drove the car and clipped a cone early, rest of the run I was trying to see if there were spots I could improve. Before my 5th run we were told we would get 5 runs, so after I coned it was time to have some fun. Little did I know there was enough time for a 6th!

Run #6, knowing this was the last run I tried to take everything I learned from the previous runs and push it a little harder. There were a few spots that I could still improve, but clipping off another 46.xxx made me very happy. I’ve had a few events where I can’t ever seem to match my fastest run and it always feels like a fluke. Being able to do the 6th run and get into the 46′s was awesome. Perfect way to end a day of racing.

Overall I finished 1st in my class (if you follow the blog on facebook you know that I was the only competitor in BSP today. ).

I did see a local EVO that I run with in SM though, so after the event I tracked down his times and he beat my best 46.447 by .045 seconds!!! Talk about close competition. I think I’m gonna switch to SM tomorrow and run with a bigger group.

All and all, a great event. Huge thanks to the crew @ CFR SCCA Solo (http://www.cfrsolo2.com) and the OCCC for letting us have the event there.

(Note: some videos are still be processed so they may not work right away)

Revolutionary Sports Team is a US based group that focuses on extreme sports competition including freestyle skiing, alpine mountaineering, and endurance sports. However, at the forefront of their efforts is performance rallying. The team owner and driver, Sam Albert, is a U.S. Army officer who got into stage rally racing in early 2009 when he began converting his 2004 Subaru STi into a full fledged open class rally car. Almost a year later he entered his first competition, Sandblast Rally 2010, where he placed fifth overall. 

In 2011, Revolutionary Sports Team was officially stood up and a permanent codriver, George Loef, was signed to the team. George is a senior Firecontrolman for the U.S. Navy, and the two have proven to be a perfect match for rallying since. The 2011 season brought several successes including two 2^nd overall finishes that have brought them to 4^th overall in the Atlantic Rally Cup in the AWD division which is sanctioned by NASA Rallysport.

Due to scheduling issues the team missed the first two races of the season and their current position is testimony to the potential this team has. Rally of the Tall Pines is the final race for the team for 2011. The winter conditions will pose a formidable challenge but Sam and George are up to the task.

Their 2004 Subaru STi is prepared for Open class competition and includes the following modifications:

Engine:
Stock EJ257 Short Block
P&P Heads
TGV Deletes
VF39 w/ 34mm restrictor
Grimmspeed Phenolic Spacer
Short Ram Intake
Cobb Accessport w/ Topspeed Tune
Cobb lightweight crank pulley
Cobb Catted Down and Intermediate Pipe
Custom Straight Axelback
Group N Engine Mounts
Mishimoto Radiator and Hoses
Motul 300V 15w50 Racing Oil
Killer B Motorsports oil Pickup and Baffle

Transmission and Driveline:
Whiteline Shifter bushings
Group N Pitch Stop Mount
Exedy Stage 1 HD Clutch
Q-Rack Quick Steering Rack
Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings

Suspension and Brakes:
RS&SP 1-way adjustable gravel coilovers
Group N top hats
4 pot front brakes w/ Ferodo 2500 pads
Modified Brembo rear w/Ferodo 2500 pads
Hydraulic E-brake w/ Wilwood Master Cylinder
ABS Delete
Internal stainless brake lines
Braided stainless brake lines external

Wheels and tires:
Braid Safari gravel wheels
Lassa Rally 3 or 4′s gravel tires
BFGoodrich G Sport gravel tires
Yokohama A034 snow tires
ARP Wheel Studs

Structure:
Autopower/Jackson Rally Roll Cage integrating all suspension points
Custom aluminum skid plate w/ mount
HDPE Custom cut underbody panels
Primitive rear differential guard
HDPE Replacement front fender liners

Lighting:
4x Soltek Forerunner HID driving lights on bumper beam replacement mount

Interior:
Aerosim Research Carbon Fiber door cards
Racetech RT1000 Race seats w/ aluminum rails
G-Force 6 pt harnesses
Terratrip Rally Computer
Terraphone Intercom

Future plans for the car include standalone engine management with Antilag, upgraded differentials and differential controller and an expanded race program including Rally Mexico as early as 2013. Revolutionary Sports Team is currently looking for sponsorships and can be contacted at revolutionarysports@gmail.com.

Revolutionary Sports would like to thank Valkyrie Motorsports for their rally service support. Owner and master fabricator Dylan Costello has served as the team’s Crew Chief for the majority of their rallies since 2010.

To find out more information about the team please visit their Facbook page at Revolutionary Sports Facebook Page where you can get the latest news and race day coverage of the team’s rally efforts.

To watch more videos of the team please visit their YouTube Channel at Revolutionary Sports YouTube Channel where you can watch the latest videos of the team’s rally efforts.

Revolutionary Sports Team is going to be fun to watch over the next year, I’ll try and keep everyone updated as they progress over next season. It’s awesome to see an STi getting out in the dirt. Lets see if we can help Revolutionary Sports’ Facebook Page and YouTube Channel pick up some new followers.

Keep it up guys,
T3h_Clap

Do you do track days? Do you autox? Do you do cruises or car shows? Then you need to check out the Contour cameras. These cameras are awesome. There are multiple cameras available, I decided to opt for the ContourGPS. I ordered mine with a few extras and recieved it within a few days. Check out what’s inside.

Now lets see what’s in the box and we’ll go over some of it’s features.

This box contains the following Contour products.

• ContourGPS
• Contour Windshield Mount
• Contour Spare Battery
• Contour Connect View

I must warn you, if you order these a week before an autox or track day you’re going to be very itchy to use it. It’s almost painful to have this beautiful piece of machinery and not get to fully use it for a week or two. I was afraid to test it on the street prior to the AutoX, but after the AutoX I would feel comfortable about using this mount even at high speeds.

First thing out of the box is the Camera itself, you’ll see here it comes in some very intuitive packaging.

The camera sits in a small protective case that holds all of the extra goodies you get with the ContourGPS, it also allows you to store and keep the camera safe during travel. Once you take off the cardboard you’ll see everything included with the ContourGPS.

The ContourGPS comes with the following items.

• ContourGPS Camera
• 2GB MicroSD card (unknown class)
• Lense Cover
• MiniUSB Cable for charging and data transfer
• Removable Lithium-Ion battery
• Goggle Mount, and two Rotating Surface Mounts
• Camera Tethers
• Clear protective case

The camera itself is very light weight at only 5.2 oz, they were able to get everything in this small lightweight package. The ContourGPS camcorder has mutliple different video settings including 1080p, 960p and 720p all @ 30 Frames Per Second (FPS) it also has an action setting which is 720p @ 60 FPS. I have used the 720p @ 60 FPS so far and the video looks really good. I do believe it needs a higher class MicroSD card then the one provided, but with MicroSD cards only costing $20 for a class 10 8gb it’s not a problem.

Another cool feature is the continous photo mode, it allows you to select the time between each photo taken. You can choose either 3,5,10,30,60 seconds between each shot. This would be a great way to document a show, or cruise. Simply mount the camera on the car and let it take a photo every few seconds. I plan on also using this feature on an upcoming motorcycle trip to document it.

The ContourGPS has a large slide record switch on top of the camera, that is very easy to activated/deactive without looking. It also features a switch on the control panel that allows you to switch between two different pre-sets. Such pre-sets include video or continous photo, video quality, resolution and frame rate. Meaning you can have setting 1 be your continuous photo mode for the drive to the event and in the paddock and setting 2 be the Action 720p 60 FPS High Quality for when you’re on course.

All of the Contour Cameras currently available come with a laser light alignment feature, which activates two laser pointers on the lense so you can properly align the camera without the need of a view finder.

The ContourGPS camera has a 135 degree wide angle lense, is 32GB MicroSD Compatible and has a 2 to 2.5hr long battery life.

The main reason I chose the ContourGPS over the ContourROAM is the ContourGPS has a built in GPS reciever which tracks your location and allows you to view where you went. As you’ll see in the videos below it’s really cool for an Autox/Track Day since it overlays your progress over Google Maps. I look forward to utilizing this feature the next time I go to Sebring International Raceway for a HPDE.

The camera also has a Bluetooth connectivity feature, which turns your cell phone into a view finder and allows you to alter the settings without plugging it into a computer. To utlize this feature on an iPhone you’ll need the Connect View card to be installed in your ContourGPS. It’s a very small card, only slightly larger then the MicroSD card, it slips in the back of the camera next to the removable battery. This is not required to use the camera but is very handy to have.

Once this bad boy is installed in the back of the camera, you connect your phone to the camera by click the hidden bluetooth connection button on the top of the camera (it’s hidden but very easy to find, when the camera is not recording the button is right in front of the slider). Once you’re connected to your phone you use the free Contour App and it turns the screen into a view finder and allows settings to be edited. Once the camera is recording the bluetooth is turned off to conserve battery. This feature is really nice when you’re using a mount that allows lots of adjustment (such as the windshield mount). 

I decided to pick up a Spare Battery, the last thing I want is to be at event without any battery power.

The last thing in the box is the Contur Windshield Mount made by Panavise. This mount has lots of adjustment and a very strong suction cup. The first time I used it I put it on the roof of the T3hClap.com STi smack dab in the middle directly behind the windshield. I got some really great video, but I look forward to Oct 22 and Oct 23 where I plan to use multiple different locations to see which angle works best.

Here you can see it mounted to the car’s roof. (photo credit to KalebPhoto)

This mount from Contour made by Panavise was designed specifically for the Contour camears, it mounts using the Contour T-Rail system. It’s a really strong mount design. Simply loosen the set screws and slide the camera into the mount and tighten the set screws.

Enough with the pics!! lets check out some video. This video is using only what you see here and the Contour software provided. No special editing or anything. It’s hosted on the Contour Community pages. Feel free to check out my stories at http://contour.com/users/t3h_clap.

Run #2

Run #3

Run #4

Feel free to ask any questions, comments, or suggestions about the setup. The only thing I plan on changing is to a higher class MicroSD card and attempting to fix the excessive wind noise on the audio.

Thanks for reading,
Clap

PS; be sure to check back soon for the write up on the past two AutoX events with Martin Sports Car Club. They are long over due.

This 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi you’re about to see here has lived. It has had many different stages, I’d wager to say it has been re-born more than once. Currently the car is in the capable hands of Billy Muller, Billy isn’t one of those young wippersnappers who found an STi on craigslist for $8k and started blindly throwing parts at it.

Over the years Billy’s had some very notable wheel and tire setups, his current set is by far my favorite. 18×9 +45mm Enkei PF01s in Blood Red powder coat, paired up with a set of uber sticky 255/35/18 Toyo R1Rs and some KW V3 coilovers. This setup is perfect for what Billy wanted, aggressive yet not crazy, loads of grip but no poke.

Billy has been in this game for awhile. 05 WRB GD, 08 DGM GRB, 05 OBP GD, 07 OBP GD this may be jibberish to some, but to others this shows the timeline of Billy’s Subaru obsession. He built an amazing WRB 2005 STi a few years back and I know for a fact he inspired a lot of other people with the Cusco Front Lip, GramLight 57Fs and multiple different wings.

Currently Billy has a pair of OBP STi’s (yes I said pair!!) one 2005 and one 2007, one nearly done and one just getting started. I’m going to let Billy take the reigns and explain abit about himself and his car’s past, present and future. Take it away Billy.

Ok, so I’m Billy Muller, I’m 24 and I’m the used car manager for my father’s Chevrolet Dealer in Stewartsville, NJ. I came into the Subaru scene in 2004 when I got a java black pearl 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX. I found out about the WRX and/or STI back playing Gran Turismo 2, along with the Evo. I told myself, one day I want to drive one of those cars, because they were so bad ass in this video game.  Well, they came here and it’s basically all downhill from there (the mod bug stuck forever). After making the wrx stage 2, it was time for an upgrade. I traded the 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX in for my 1^st STi (I’ve had 4 STi’s in total), which was a WRB 2005. I did everything with that car, and had a well followed members journal on iwsti.com.

For a reason I don’t know, I felt the need for a change and put the entire car back to stock and traded it in for a new 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STi GR hatch. It was a really nice car, but I fell in love with the original car brought to the US. The GD just has the feel, and the look.

I went stage 2, added some suspension stuff and drove about 5000 miles. I soon put the 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STi up for sale.

That is when I spotted a 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi for sale on ebay and the forum. I had to have it. I didn’t care how far it was, it was a bad ass car. Long story short, when I got it, the motor was no good. Depressed after waiting for so long, I took the car to my friends at EFI Logics, since I know Chris already from xx tuning.

He told me they had to tear it down, it was spewing oil out everywhere, was smoking bad, and was very unhealthy. With everyone following my newly made members journal, the results were posted by pete at EFI. All four forged JE pistons were cracked, my bearings had heavy scoring, the cams had heavy scoring, the cylinder walls had scoring, it was a train wreck of a motor. With no where to go, they said what do you want to do? I told them, build it, use the good parts (the turbo and supporting components), and make me something better than this car was perceived. So the build began, I let EFI chose which parts to go with each other, after telling them what I expected from the car. 

A little while later, Tina (Rob @ EFI names all his motors), was done and ready to be stuffed back in. I think my car was one of the first highly modded motors to come out of EFI, since they opened in 08, and everybody was waiting to see the results. After the break in, I had issues with my meth kit and my fuel pump was cutting out. I was disheartened following what EFI recommended, I made an appointment for installing an Aquamist HFS6 and for Jack (the fabricator) to add a Full Blown dual Walbro setup. I’m running 950cc injectors, and the fuel pump couldn’t keep up with them, hence the reason to add a secondary pump. Finally, the day came for dyno tuning with the new setup.

Final dyno numbers for my STi were 510whp/473wtq, one of the highest to come out of EFI. The dual walbros dropped my IDCs by 30% with tons of room left on the table. The only thing holding it back now is the actual turbo itself.

Now the car was in my hands, it was running great and has been ever since. I have changed the car’s look numerous times, making it my own creation. Many people probably don’t realize it was the same car featured in Modified Mag one year. My original plans for this car was to use it on the track, but for what it has been through, my mind has changed.

I recently acquired a 2007 sti as my daily driver with only 9000 miles…..STOCK! My mind changed and I knew this was the car to use. While my 05 would probably be a beast on the track, you don’t see many 500whp sti’s going around. Most at 350-400whp,with great response. The 07 is going to be that car. The 07 is going to be a fresh start for me, which I am so excited for. The 07 is going to be the track b***h, but with a full interior, etc. it’s for those fun days, but hey you never know how it’ll turn out. I love following Amy (StripesRX) and her racing and would love to follow her around to events and race in honor of EFI.

The 05 is going to be the garage queen, with the 54,000 miles she only has on her, tearing up the streets when she comes out. I still have some chargespeed carbon fiber pieces coming for it too. I think I’m going to add a bigger turbo and go for more power in the future too. You can’t stop at 500whp. I want more than that lol.  Right now, I’m busy trying to sell cars in our economy and maybe soon, open a performance shop within the dealer.

You can find my cars under VSGTS14 on iwsti.com and any time EFI Logics has an event, I’ll be there. My 05 was featured in EFI Logics booth at Wicked Big Meet and The Mega Meet recently both cars will always see EFI Logics for all work performed, everybody should turn to them if you need a tune, a fix, or a parts inquiry, especially with JNA performance right next to them.  

So a big thank you goes out to them for all their hard work and patience. I’d like to thank iwsti.com for their help and insight about parts and what to do and to the members I know on there. A thank you to my girlfriend who doesn’t know one thing about subaru’s, but likes to be around the scene and people. Also, thanks for T3h_Clap for my hundreds of pm’s about wheel fitment for nearly every STi I have owned and figuring out what works and what doesn’t!

MODS:
Engine
EFI Logics Built EJ25 Block – 93 octane + meth injection

510whp/473wtq @ 27 psi

• COBB Accessport V2
• Aquamist HFS6
• Spec C Tank w/Meth
• EFI Logics Special Pistons
• EFI Logics Custom Fuel System w/-8 AN Fittings and Lines
• Cosworth S2 Grind Camshafts 278/274 – properly sized valve buckets for optimal clearance
• Supertech +0.5 Intake and Exhaust Valves – mild head port on exhaust side only
• Supertech Titanium Retainer Seats
• Supertech Valve Springs
• Supertech Spring Seats
• ARP Head Studs
• Invidia N1 Race w/Ti Tip Catback
• Ultimate Racing GT35R Turbo
• Ultimate Racing Downpipe
• Ultimate Racing 3 Bolt Uppipe
• Ultimate Racing Reverse Flow Ver1 FMIC
• Crawford Performance Ver.1 A/O Seperator
• Custom 83mm MAF Housing – KS Tech
• Full Blown Dual Walbro Pump Setup w/Custom Lines
• Blitz SBC ID3 Boost Controller
• TIAL 44mm EWG (Custom Dump Tube)
• TIAL BOV
• Thermo Turbo Blanket
• Aeromotive Fuel Rails
• Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator with Liquid-Filled CHM Gauge
• GT Spec Gen 2 Unequal Length Header
• KOYO Aluminum Radiator
• Moroso Version 1 Oil Pan
• Grimmspeed Thermostat
• JDM TGV deletes
• Deatschwerks 950cc Side Feed Injectors
• NGK One Step Colder Plugs
• AR Fab Harmonic Balancer
• ARC Radiator Cap
• Braille Lightweight Battery w/EFI Logics Bracket
• Perrin Radiator Hoses
• Coolant Reservoir Delete
• Gates Timing Belt
• Kartboy Exhaust Hangers
• KillerB Windshield Washer Tank
• Carbign Craft Carbon Fiber Alternator Cover
• Carbign Craft Carbon Fiber Radiator Shroud
• Dress Up Bolts Polished Engine Bay Bolts
• Project MU Brake & Clutch Caps

Exterior

• Voltex Carbon Fiber Rear Diffuser
• Syms Rear Spoiler
• Syms Side Skirts
• S2000 Retrofit Headlights w/Angel Eyes (Lightwerkz)
• 10% Window Tint
• Debadged
• Blue Bat’s Tinted Tails + 3rd Brake Light
• Black “I” Emblem
• Black STi Billet Aluminum Front Bumper Trim
• Carbon Fiber Front Lip
• NRG Polished Hood Dampers
• Varis Carbon Fiber Exhaust Shield

Interior

• Bride Gias Low Max Seats with Gradiation
• Blacked Out Interior w/Pass Through
• PROVA D-Shaped Steering Wheel
• S204 Style Flat Black Dash Trim
• Aspec Titanium Shift Knob
• AEM AFR Gauge
• Autometer Carbon Fiber Gauge Pods
• DEFI BF Amber Boost
• DEFI BF Amber Oil Pressure
• DEFI BF Amber EGT
• DEFI Control Unit II
• DEFI Triple Meter Hood
• Fully Converted Interior Lights to Red courtesy of Interior Flaire
• Subtle Solutions Ashtray Bezel (Black)
• Auto-Dimming Mirror/Compass
• Polished STi Shifter Surround
• JDM Carbon Shift Pattern Decal
• Autospeed Dead Pedal
• TurboXS Knock Light
• Passport 8500 X50
• Forester DIN Pocket
• Alpine iDA-X305 Digital Media Receiver
• Alpine Type-R Speakers

 Drivetrain

• Enkei PF01 18×9 +45 Powdercoated Candy Apple Red (Courtesy of EFI Logics & T3h_Clap)
• Toyo R1R 255/35/18
• Project Kics R40 Neochrome Lugs
• Kartboy Short Shifter W/All Bushings
• ACPT Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
• Carbonetics Twin Disc Clutch w/Flywheel
• Steel Braided Clutch Line & ATE Super Blue
• Cusco Engine & Tranny Mounts
• Solid Aluminum Pitch Stop Mount
• TiC Outrigger & Tranny Cross Member Bushings

Suspension & Stiffening

• KW Variant 3 Coilovers
• RCE Camber Plates
• The Car Labs X-Brace
• COBB Front & Rear Sways
• Perrin Rear Endlinks
• Whiteline Sport ALK Kit
• Whiteline Subframe Locking Bolts
• Whiteline Adjustable Front Endlinks
• Whiteline Adjustable Lateral Links
• Offensive Power Front Fender Braces
• JDM Titanium Front Strut Bar
• Cusco Version 2 Subframe Brace

Brakes

• Ferodo DS2500 Pads
• Goodridge SS Lines
• ATE Super Blue Fluid

There is no doubt that Billy’s Obsidian Black Pearl 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi on Blood Red Enkei PF01s is well put togther. His engine setup, tune, exterior, interior, suspension, and wheels are all top notch. The guys at EFI did a great job on Billy’s car, makes me want to send the t3hClap.com STi up there for a new motor.

I’ll keep everyone posted with the progress of both of Billy’s STi’s and hopefully that will include some Autox, Track Day, and Drag strip photos next.

Billy, which wheels we thinking about for the 07?

Be sure to like us on facebook, if you’d like your car to be featured on the blog post your car with your wheel specs on our facebook page.

I just wanted to show off this gorgeous car from across the atlantic. It’s the first set of Work Emotion Kiwamis I’ve seen actually installed and they look awesome.
Quick specs:
2011 Subaru Impreza WRX STI
Stock Suspension
Work Emotion Kiwami 18×8.5 +38mm GTS
245/40/18 Dunlop SP600

See the pics!!

These things look awesome, can’t wait to see more of them show up on Subarus.

-T3h_Clap

Photos by Michael Guntli aka. drmichi

Quick little set of photos of the Karlton Flares in action at the 2011 Tire Rack SCCA Solo Nationals this past week.

Karlton placed 6th overall in SM after both days!! I can’t wait to see how Karlton does next year with some more tire and some more fine tuning. Maybe it’ll be time for t3hclap.com to take a road trip.

On to the pics.

We’re working hard on getting things back up to speed and updated over the next couple weeks/months. With the STi back and running we’ll be back autoxing in less then 11 days! We’ve got a few articles we’re working on, so stay tuned.

If you’d like to see your car featured here on the blog don’t hesitate to shoot us an email.

-T3h_clap

Adam has once again stepped up to the plate and blasted it out of the park. The first things that caught my eye on these photos were the Enkei RPF1s. I may be a little biased towards the Enkei RPF1, but the SBC color is a perfect match for Aspen White without question. Your eyes aren’t playing tricks on you, Adam is rocking the huge Karlton fender flares, a huge front splitter, and a massive Kognition wing. Adam opt’d for all that extra grip and downforce to help him get an edge in the Limited GT AWD class for the upcoming Global Time Attack at Willow Springs this weekend (5/20/2011).

Suspension:
Ground Control Coilovers with 750/650 lb springs
Koni 8611s
Modified Six Gun BJE kit
Cobb Sway
Whiteline Lateral Links
Custom boxed in trailing arms with TiC bushings

Wheels/Tires:
Enkei RPF1 18×10.5 +15mm
ARP Wheel Studs
285/30/18 Toyo R888s

Engine:
Turbo is a GT35R with Tial .82 hotside
Custom header, up pipe and down pipe made by BM Engineering
Manley 2.6 stroker

Exterior:
Zero/Sports front bumper with quick release
Kognition rear spoiler
Custom front splitter
Karlton fender flares

Adam didn’t slack on any of the setup or prep for his car. He’s always been ahead of the curve and this time he out did himself with the new exterior and his personally built custom turbo kit. Good luck this weekend Adam!! Enough with the chat. Time for the awesome pics from Jermy Howat, check out his Flickr page

Work has tweaked their classic Work Emotion CR once again with a new model called the Work Emotion CR Kiwami. They changed the spoke design and made it more concave, this wheel is looking awesome. I’m not sure when they’ll be available for sale stateside but I’ll keep everyone posted.

Work has added Matte-Black to the new Work Emotion CR Kiwami color lineup. I really like the little detail they did on the spokes to differentiate the new CE Kiwami from previous Emotion CR models.

Click more for the photos of the different colors.

They’ve got some really sweet sizes available too.
Subaru Impreza WRX STI and Mitsubishi EVO Fitments
17×8 (Minimal/Shallow Concave)
+47mm, +35mm

17×9 (Deep Concave)
+38mm, 28mm, 17mm

18×8.5 (Middle Concave)
+47mm, +38mm, +30mm

18×9.5 (Deep Concave)
+28mm, +30mm, +20mm, +12mm

18×10.5 (Deep Concave)
+23mm

The deep concave version of these wheels will look great. The 18×10.5 +23mm will require a bit of a spacer to fit right with the Karlton flares, but would be a very aggressive fitment on a stock body GR or it would work nicely with an ARP wide body GD.

Important Note: I haven’t had a chance to confirm caliper clearances just yet. Once I know for sure what clears what I’ll post it up. So be sure to confirm caliper clearances before dropping the deposits.

-T3h_clap

There has been a lot of chat out there about a certain set of new fender flares that are on the market. I get a lot of questions about what wheels are available in the correct sizes. A few months back I compiled a list of 18×10.5s and it’s about time I shared it with everyone.

The sweet spot is 18×10.5 +15mm with a 295/30/18, coilovers and some camber. Go Ginormous or GTFO.

This first post will be all 1 piece wheels that clear the STi Brembos, the 2/3 piece article will come later once we know exactly how aggressive we can go with these monster flares Karlton has created.

Advan
RZ-DF 18×10.5 +15mm

Advan RZ-DF

RG-D 18×10.5 +15mm

Advan RG-D

TCII 18×10.5 +15mm (GTR Face)

Advan TCII

Enkei

PF01 18×10.5 +15mm

Enkei PF01

RPF1 18×10.5 +15mm

Enkei RPF1

NT03+M 18×10.5 +30mm

Enkei NT03+M

GramLight

57g 18×10.5 +12mm (Face 3)

GramLight 57G

Ings+

TS06 18×10.5 +15mm

TS06

Volk Racing

RE30 18×10.5 +18mm (L2)

Volk Racing RE30

CE28N 18×10.5 +18mm

Volk Racing CE28N

TE37 SL 18×10.5 +15mm

Volk Racing TE37 SL

TE37 18×10.5 +15mm

Volk Racing TE37

VR.

G2 18×10.5 +27mm (F3)

VR. GR2

WedsSport

TC105N 18×10.5 +12mm (RR)

WedsSport TC105N

So, you want to cover up your 285s or you want to squeeze your 315s off your vette on to your STI? Karlton has your solution. He got flares built to his specs and now he’s written a nice little how to for us all. I’ll leave the rest to Karlton.

I had these flares produced as I had a need for fitting wider tires for autocross. I thought about doing a widebody, but the cost of install kind of scared me away, as often times the cost of the install and paintwork is more than the cost of the widebody kit LOL. So I went for the next best thing, I had some fender  flares made for my car. Relatively simple to install, and a whole lot cheaper than the widebody route. So I basically can have a widebody to fit my tire needs without the crazy cost So how do you install these you ask? Well let’s start with the front since it’s the easiest to do.

First thing I did was I taped the flares up to the car (I was working alone, a second set of hands could be very helpful!). This gave me a rough idea of fit etc.  Now this is where I deviated from what most people would probably do. Instead of cutting/clearancing my fenders first, I decided to install the flares first, using nutserts  and stainless steel button head bolts.  I did this because, first of all, I couldn’t wait when I first got them I had to install them right away LOL and also because then I knew exactly where the flares would be and exactly how much the flare covered, so I knew where and how much I could cut.

Front Flare Taped on

So now the flare is taped on the fender, so the next step is to drill!! I started with a pretty small drill bit to make a pilot hole first. I also started with the upper hole closest to the door, then the front hole by the bumper, then finally the lower hole near the door.  If you have 2 people, then you won’t have to do this next step, but I was working solo. What I did was I used small sheetmetal screws and screwed the flare into place. Then I would unscrew one, drill to the appropriate size I needed for the nutserts I used (I used a 3/8″ drill bit), and move on to the next one. After you have your holes drilled, take your nutserts and nutsert tool and go ahead and install them, and try to install them as flush with the metal as possible.  Once the nutserts are installed, go ahead and install the flare with the appropriate bolts.  Once this step is done, I was ready to cut my stock fender for clearance.

Attaching The Flares

Installing the Nutserts

Nutsert Installed

My next step was to use blue painters tape and mask along the top of the flare. This was so I knew NOT to cut there  as it wouldn’t be covered hahaha. Now that you have the nutserts in place, that also gives you an idea of where you can cut.  So go ahead and take the flare off, and prepare yourself for cutting. I used an angle grinder with a cut off wheel, and basically cut about an inch and a half below my tape line. I cut the front bumper a bit where I thought I could have a clearance issue (the top area of the bumper) and I cut all the way along the back, but I left the rear tab where the fender liner attaches. This is so I could continue to run the back half of my fender liner. I then switched to a grinding stone on my angle grinder and smoothed out my cut a bit. Then I just painted it with some rustoleum I had on the shelf. Install the flare and that’s it!

Flares Screwed On

Cutting the Front Fender

The front bumper piece is the same concept. Tape it up there, drill the holes, and bolt them on The only difference is for the plastic pieces (i.e. the bumpers) , it’s best to just use a washer and nut on the backside of the bolts, since nutserts are not technically supposed to go into soft materials such as plastic.

Now for the rears, these are a bit more tricky but definitely doable. Basically do the same thing as the fronts. I taped them up, drilled pilot holes, screwed them in, then drilled larger holes . Took them off, installed the nutserts, bolted them back up (again using just a bolt/washer/nut for the rear bumper attachmen),  taped along the top edge for reference, then took the flare back off.

Pulled Rear Fenders Ready To be CUT!

This is where it gets a bit more difficult. What I did was I cut a radius on the outer layer of metal with my angle grinder and cut off wheel, leaving just the inner layer there in place. The problem I had was that I already cut my inner metal the first time I pulled my fenders for wider wheels/tires, so I had less inner metal to work with.  What I then did was I made little vertical slits in the inner layer so that I could fold it up to contact the outer layer. This is so I could bond the inner and outer layers back together for strength, but also to save the tires in case they somehow made contact with the cut fender (highly unlikely as I cut up quite far hahaha). With the inner layer folded up, there’s no sharp edge to contact the tire.

Cut Rear Fender

Now originally I was going to weld the 2 layers back together, but I got scared I was going to warp the metal or something with too much heat. So I used some automotive panel adhesive (like what corvettes are glued together with) with the special gun with 2 plungers.  Honestly this should work just fine, but if it happens to separate, I will grind all the glue away then weld. I also put a coat of this adhesive everywhere there was a gap to seal it all from moisture.

Fender Lip Cut Off

Rear Fender Mod

After this is done, I didnt even paint the metal as there is no exposed bare metal left. After this is done, it’s time to install the flare back on. For the forward most piece of the large rear flare, it is held on with 1 screw that goes into the metal where there is usually a rubber piece. Not sure what purpose that rubber piece holds but I removed it and screwed the flare into the flap. I had to use some washers though in between the metal flap and the flare as the company made the flares over the rubber piece, and now since my rubber piece is no longer there, there’s a bit of a gap. After you have the main fender flare piece installed, open the door and make sure it clears the flare. Then, the final step is to use some double sided tape and tape on the door piece, keeping an equal gap between it and the flare. Once that’s installed, all done!! Definitely a whole lot easier than doing a widebody kit, and now I can fit my 18×10.5 +25  wheels with 285/30/18 tires EASILY. Tons of room for more wheel and tire

Flares Attached

Karlton Flares

Close up Front Flare

Close Up Rear Fender Flare

T3h_Clap commentary: 18×10.5 +25mm and 285s and they look TINY! These flares are going to be a must have for any SM or STM STi. I think these would be great on a lot of time attack STi’s too. The great thing about these flares is were designed for the STI from the start. I can’t wait to get my hands on a set that fit the 05 Front bumper for my car.

First off I want to thank Karlton for all the hard work he’s put in to get these made. He’s got the molds and is starting to make these bad boys for the 06 STi’s. If anyone is interested in a set comment/email me and I’ll get you in contact with him.

Do you know D Money? If you own a Subaru and frequent any of the message boards or popular blogs you’ve stumbled on a photo of a white Bugeye with JDM headlights, full C-West lip kit and some 18″ Gold Advan RG2′s. That white bugeye is now blue/purple and now Dimitri has decided to up the ante, he picked up one of the rarest front bumpers for the bugeye and decided to build the next version of his bugeye from the ground up.

Dimitri shaved the engine bay to accent the heart of this Bugeye Impreza WRX, the engine. With a plethora of high end, top of the line parts and AN Fittings D Money has nearly completed this phase of his cars transformation.

I’ve been talking with D Money about wheel fitment for years, from the start I knew he wasn’t going for nationals or Red Line Time Attack podium finishes. D wanted his wheels to fit beyond proper yet still have rubber. He took the 18×9.5 +30mm Work Emotion CR Kai’s and added some 10mm spacers to help fill out his now pulled fenders front and rear. The 255/35/18 Dunlop Z1 Star Specs keep the car stuck to the ground.

Speaking of “to the ground”, D Money is low. I can’t suggest this setup to just anyone. The work put into getting a Subaru this low is extensive. It’s obvious here that D Money prefers the low for his photoshoots and shows. Hopefully I can convince him to raise the car up and run a smaller spacer if/when he goes out to a track day.

LOL LOL, perfect vanity plate for this car. It may not be my favorite setup but he has done a damn good job at setting the car up to do exactly what he wanted it to do.  Turn Heads.

I’ve answered more PM’s from DMoney then any other individual and I was happy to do it. I’m happy to be able to say I helped with this build. Our PM’s ranged on topics from ARP wheel studs, spacers to 6 Pot Project Mu brake clearance. After awhile we got his wheel and tire setup figured out. Looking at the finished product shows that Dimitri spent lots of time on his fender and alignment settings, most people wouldn’t be able to tell (from these photos) that he’s running a +20mm offset. That’s the way it should be.

All the guys running low offsets and skinny tires need to take note here. 18×9.5 +20mm with a 255/35/18 and still under the stock fenders.

My autoxing and track day side of me wants the ride height a bit higher while the other side of me is simply smiling at a well put together Bugeye. Keep it up Dimitri

If you’ve got a few minutes read the mod list. hahaha, fyi it’s not short.

Mods list:

Exterior:
JUN Auto Bumper (Authentic)
C-West side skirts
HKS Kansai Service rear diffuser
ARC Magic splitters
Ganador mirrors
Varis carbon fiber B-pillars
Top Secret titanium tow hook
Chargespeed carbon fiber brake ducts
04-05 rear tail lights
04 STI rear bumper
Velocity Carbon V1 trunk lid
Kakumei carbon fiber window spoiler
McCulloch 6000k H1 HIDs
JDM STI headlights
JDM STI rear aprons
JDM STI grill w/STI emblem
JDM Subaru pink star badge
JDM STI hood scoop
JDM Subaru rain guards
Carbing aluminum under panel
30% tinted windows by Shades of Gray
STI license plate bracket
Hella Supertone horns
VKInnovations carbon fiber wiper cowl
Summit Racing dzus fasteners
Rolled & pulled front/rear fenders
Takata low down ramps (show use)

Paint/body:
BAS-F Ultrasonic Blue Mica w/dark aluminum & purple flake
Shaved & wire tucked engine bay
Shaved: factory antenna, side markers & window washers
Painted: Trunk, radiator brackets, timing belt covers, brake booster, sub frame brace

Coating/finishing:
All powder coating done by Martin at Liquid Powder Coats
All chroming done by Brian at RB chroming
All ceramic coating done in Jet-Hot 2000
All carbon fiber done by Vince at VKInnovations

Interior:
BRIDE Stradia Maziora edition w/Andromeda backs
BRIDE brackets/sliders
BRIDE optional gradiation center pads
BRIDE wrapped door cards in gradiation
BRIDE wrapped back seat in gradiation
Black suede headliner & visors
Black suede rear deck lid
VKInnovations c/f interior trim pieces
Shaved/painted b & c pillars
Takata harnesses (x2)
Pioneer AVIC-D3 in dash dvd/mp3/cd/nav/ipod
Alpine Type-S 6 ½ front speakers
Alpine Type-S 5 ¼ rear speakers
Alpine Type-S tweeters
Grimmspeed internal antenna
Key!s Racing semi-cone 325mm steering wheel
Works Bell Rapfix II quick release
Works Bell short boss hub
Works Bell Rapfix flipper
STI floor mats
STI shifter trim
STI limited black carpet
STI I/C spray switch
STI key blank
STI Cluster
STI e-brake handle
STI C/F 5mt shift pattern
STI chrome door handles
STI aluminum door sills
STI full pedal set
JMF custom sheet metal rear fire wall
Garage spec shifter extender
ARC polished titanium shift knob
Autospeed dead pedal
Taylor polished battery box
Broadway rear view mirror
Prodriven Auto full interior red LED conversion
YourLEDshop full interior white LED kit
Lotek dual gauge pod
Defi triple gauge hood pod
Defi control unit
Defi BF Amber 60mm guages
-Boost
-Oil Temp.
-Exhaust Temp.
-Oil Pressure
-Water Temp.

Wheels/brakes/suspension:
Work Emotion CR Kai 18×9.5 +30 WMB finish
Project Kics R40 Neo chrome lug nuts
Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec 255/35/18
Project µ 355mm big brake kit w/ SCR-PRO rotors
Project µ Teflon/steel braided brake lines
Project µ B-force pads front & rear
Brembo rear calipers (custom powdercoated Pmµ teal)
Rear Brembo adapter kit w/DBA 4000 series rotors
Stoptech SS braided rear brake lines
Custom ABS delete with Earl’s -3AN fittings
Motul RBF-600 brake fluid
Stance AL+ PRO coilovers (8k/6k)
Race alignment (-3F -2.5R)
ARP extended studs F/R
Megan Racing C-pillar bar
Whiteline steering rack bushings
Whiteline roll center kit
Carbing front strut bar w/msb
Carbing 8pt subframe brace
Cusco rear strut bar
Cusco rear V-brace
Cusco lateral links
Cusco trailing arms
Cusco 22mm front sway bar
Cusco 22mm rear sway bar
Hotchkis front/rear endlinks
Perrin rear sway bar mounts

Engine/head specs:
RAW Performance (Axis) Signature Series block:
• 2.5L STI semi-closed deck case (8.5:1)
• Darton Ductile iron sleeve liners
• Modified forged EJ257 crankshaft
• ACL race main & rod bearings
• Custom Pauter machined forged rods
• Custom & coated CP Forged pistions (100mm)
• High performance pistion rings
• Fully balanced & blue printed
• ARP head studs
• Cometic head gaskets
• Raw Performance shimmed STI oil pump
• New STI water pump
• STI Group-N Kevlar timing belt
• Factory Subaru engine gasket kit

RAW Performance (Axis) Signature Series heads:
• Custom Kelford 280/280 camshafts (11.3mm lift)
• Custom hand porting work
• 5-Angle intake valve job
• 3-Angle & radiused exhaust valve job
• Supertech oversized intake valves (+1mm)
• Supertech oversized Inconel exhaust valves (+1mm)
• Valves lapped into head
• Supertech dual valve springs
• Titanium retainers- new spring seats
• Subaru valve stem seals
• Shimless Subaru buckets
• Flow bench tested

Engine/turbo/dress up:
Ultimate Racing turbo kit (ceramic coated in Jet-Hot 2000)
HTA86 1.06 A/R
2.5” ID up-pipe
Gruppe-S UEL header (ceramic coated in Jet-Hot 2000)
Hydra EMS v2.6 w/wideband
Hydra flat foot shift/launch control cable
JMF custom intercooler kit w/Garrett 24x12x4 core
JMF custom coolant overflow tank
JMF custom coolant tank
JMF custom power steering tank
JMF custom FPR/distribution block bracket
JMF custom dual pulley setup
JMF custom cnc’d alternator bracket
JMF oil cooler core bracket
TiAL “Q” 50mm bov
TiAL 44mm external waste gate
ATP -4AN oil feed line w/.035 restrictor
JDM TGV deletes
Cusco motor/transmission mounts
Koyo Radiator
ATI super damper
Unorthodox 2-pc polished pulley set
Crucial Racing thermostat
Gates Racing accessory belt
Hayden slimline fans
JIC Spartan DE type-1 full titanium exhaust (80mm)
P & L braided power steering line
P & L -8AN head breather adapters
Custom -8AN crank vent system
Peterson Air/Oil separator
Port matched intake manifold and tgvs
Ported throttle body (64.5mm)
Setrab oil cooler core (-10AN)
Mocal sandwich plate w/built in thermostat
JDM STI pink oil filter
Apex’i AVCR electronic boost controller
Apex’i turbo timer w/HKS harness
Vibrant vacuum lines
Agency power pitch stop
Samco radiator hoses
ARC radiator caps (x2)
ARC titanium radiator shroud
ARC oil fill cap
Gallery Original Dress up colored bolts (56pcs.)
Project µ brake & clutch reservoir caps
Project Kics magnetic oil drain plug
NRG polished hood dampers
Full wire tuck by Wkderf

Fuel system:
Ultimate Racing 1260cc injectors
RAW Performance -6AN fuel rails
TurboXS surge tank setup
Bosch044 external fuel pumps (x2)
Walbro 255l/ph fuel pump
Aeromotive A1000 platinum series fuel pressure regulator
Aeromotive fuel pressure gauge
Aeromotive 10-micron fuel filter
Aeromotive aluminum fuel filter bracket
Earl’s distribution blocks (x2)
Earl’s swivel-seal fittings
Earl’s Auto-Flex HTE hose (-8AN feed, -6AN return)
Jay Racing –6AN check valves (x2)
Jay Racing Bosch pump -6AN inlet fittings

Drivetrain:
PPG 1-4 straight cut gear set (3.08 / 1.87 / 1.32 / 0.95 / std)
PPG 1-4 billet selector forks
PPG LSD front differential
PPG synchros
Powder coated Transmission case w/all new bolts
ACT XT 6-puck sprung clutch
ACT Streetlite flywheel (13.9lbs)
Custom -3AN clutch line
07’ 3.54 R180 (painted, chromed rear diff cover, earls ¾”npt plugs)
Redline lightweight shockproof gear oil
Motul gear 300
Kartboy 5mt short shfiter
Kartboy front shifter bushings
Kartboy rear shifter bushing
Kartboy exhaust hangers
Kartboy trans cross member bushings
Kartboy rear subframe bolts
Kartboy rear outrigger bushings (race)
TIC rear diff mount bushings (race)
TIC shifter pivot bushings
TIC shift linkage bushings
Driveshaft shop 600hp rear axles
Driveshaft shop 600hp front axle bar upgrade

Sponsors:

Sponsor list:
201motorsports
Liquid Powdercoats
RAW Performance
Andrewtech Automotive
CVR Motorsports
Bride/Tees USA
Stance-USA
RB Chroming
Vitale Collision
JM Fabrications
Velocity Carbon
VKInnovations
Rockstar energy drinks
Akuma Motorsports

On to the next one,

T3h_Clap

A short little “where are they now” feature. Feb 2009 I did an article on a simple yet awesome White GR STi, it turned out to be one of the most popular articles. It all started in the mind of a crazy guy from California who wanted to build a “family car”. Many should remember his first feature, if you don’t be sure to check it out (CLICK HERE).

Luis took his car out again for some fresh photos, I have no clue where he finds these places but they always seem to compliment the car. Take a look at Luis’s “Family Canyon Carver”.

Luis was one of the first to really prove the 08 STi could run a 9.5″ with minimal work, he could’ve gone with a low offset 9″ wheel but he decided to go with the higher offset 9.5″ to get the stance and performance he was looking for. You’ll be hard pressed to find someone that doesn’t like this car. It can be seen in a bunch of print media in most of the import magazines.

Only Luis knows what’s in store for the future of his iconic 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STi. The Type-F is a great looking wheel that fits the GR STi perfectly.

The second I saw the new updated photos I knew I had to put them up, this car shines proper fitment while still being aggressive. The SSR Type-Fs in 18×9.5 +40mm fit perfectly in both size and style on Luis’s 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STi.

Here’s a link to the Gallery so you can check out the high res versions of his photos.

My STi – Oct2010

-T3h_clap

Khaild aka. jordanretro1223 on IWSTI finally stopped teasing his followers and posted photos of his newly installed wheels and tires. There were plenty of guesses when posted his teaser photo, they ranged from Advan to Volk. There were a few people who were on the right track thinking the new wheels were either the new Advan RZ-DF or Advan RG-D. Advan gold is a color people dream about, it’s amazing.

Khalid chose to go with an 18×9 +25mm with a 225/40/18. It isn’t my favorite choice of fitment but they are the first publicly posted Advan RG-D’s on an STi and he’s done the work to get them to fit. That alone deserves a quick feature.

On to the pics.

These wheels were released in March of this year and it took 6 mos before they showed up on an STi and they do look good. In March I asked who would be the first to be running the RG-D on the blog. New Advan Wheels. RG-D, RZ-DF. We have our answer.

Khalid’s offset choice and tire size aren’t what you normally see on the blog, it’s a little low and a little skinny but in his defense he went about making this setup work correctly. He found out what needed to be done to fit the new wheels and he was prepared to do it. These days there are far too many people blindly buying a set of wheels then asking for help, it’s refreshing to see someone more than willing to make their setup work.

Here’s to hoping his next set of tires will be a little wider and grippier!

Looking good Khalid.

Mod List/Specs:
Suspension:
Stance GR+ Coilovers with added front helper springs

Other suspension:
24mm Whiteline adjustable sways front and rear
Kartboy links front and rear
Whiteline ALK – Standard
Whiteline RCA

Camber:
2.7 degrees front
2.3 degrees rear

Khalid wanted to thank the guys at IAG Performance for their help. “JJ and Rick are two great guys who treat their customers right and have always done spectacular work for me.” – Khalid

-T3h_clap

About a week ago I asked Dan to do some comparisons on the weight distribution of his Subaru Impreza WRX STi after he was corner balanced. Specifically regarding how a larger fuel load will effect the F/R bias. Sure a formula could’ve figured it out but some real world hard data is better.

Here’s the data Dan (CGMDan on IWSTI) collected.

Methodology car was weighed, without driver, starting at slightly less than 1/4 tank indicated. Once on the scales, the car was not moved or shaken. Fuel was added 2.5 gallons at a time and data was collected. Sways were not disconnected as I was only concerned about front to rear weight bias. I did record corner weights at 1/4 tank and again once full. Once full, I reverse calculated the fuel load at each measurement.

1/4 tank starting weights without driver

928.5 | 924.5
660.4 | 650.4 Cross weights were 50.1% LR to RF

Fuel ___fuel load ___total wt. ___Fr wt. ___R wt. ____F/R bias in %
1/4 tank 3.5gal _____3163.5 ____1852 ____1311.5 ____58.5/41.5
+2.5 Gal 6gal _______3179.0 ____1854 ____1325.0 ____58.3/41.7
+2.5 Gal 8.5gal _____3194.5 ____1856 _____1337.5 ___58.1/41.9
+2.5 Gal 11gal ______3210.0 ____1858 ____1352.0 ____57.9/42.1
+2.5 Gal 13.5gal ____3225.5 _____1859 ____1366.5 ___57.6/42.4
+1.5 Gal 15gal ______3234.0 _____1859.5___1374.5 ___57.5/42.5

Full fuel corner weights without driver.

931.4 | 927.4
691.4 | 682.4

For comparison, here is Colin Feidler’s corner weights.
It also shows the F/R weight bias is a bit different.

“My STI with me in it weighed 3294 last time I corner balanced it. I weighed probably about 160 which means the car was 3134. I was able to get it to get a 50/50 cross balance fairly easily with me in the car. We ended up with LF- 997, RF- 958, LR-690, RR-649. I think after I set the ride height we had to adjust the RR spring perch like half a turn so we got really lucky. My ride heights were lower than most people at 13.5″ front and 13″ rear.”

It’s good to see that the overall % isn’t changed too much. I normally suggest people get corner balanced at the fuel load they plan on competing with most often. This shows that you could get balanced with 1/2 tank and be pretty well balanced with 1/4 or full.

We are kind of stating the obvious here, but its still some fun data. The key is still to get corner balanced once you put on a new coilover suspension.

-Drew

Big thanks to Dan and the guys at Flat Out Racing

Stumbled on a few photos from Rally Sport Direct’s 2011 STi sitting on 19×10 +35mm Yokohama Advan RZ-DF.

They didn’t wait long to roll those rear fenders, slap on a new suspension and some adjustable rear arms and some 265s. The car still has its temp tags! Go RSD! I’m not a fan of black wheels but the Matte Finish on these Advan RZ-DFs is amazing.

I’m going to try and track down the total weight of the combination.

A few details on the setup.
Suspension:
Tein Mono-Flex
Cusco Rear Trailing Arms
Cusco Rear Lateral Links

Wheels:
Advan RZ-DF 19×10 +35 Flat Black
Nitto Invo 265/30-19

A link to their blog
theATTACK Rally Sport Direct Blog

We’ll try and keep track of them. Hopefully this one sees the track like their 08 did.

-T3h_Clap

The big wigs at Cobb Tuning are hosting a film festival. If you’re not familiar with Cobb’s film festival check it out. Cobb’s Film Festival 2010. With a chance to win $3000 there are going to be loads of entries. I can’t wait to see all of the top notch entries. Speaking of entries, here is the first T3hClap.com featured car that entered the competition.

Fellow Floridian and past Blog feature Logan has submitted a killer video for the contest. Check it out!

Logan’s Cobb Film Festival Submission

Watch the video, share with family, share with friends, post on local forums, PM it to your worst enemy, and get your girlfriend’s little sister to watch it twice!

Good Luck Logan!
-T3h_Clap

Last month I was at Sebring International Raceway with Chin Motorsports. The car was ready, I was as ready as I was going to be so my fiancée and I headed down to Sebring Friday night after work. Bright and early on Saturday morning I head over to tech/registration and begin prepping my car (ie. remove all the stuff I thought I might need). After the driver’s meeting and class session my instructor and I hit the track for the first session.

The car performed flawlessly (except some higher EGT’s which I’ll talk of later), I was happy with the performance of the Dunlop Z1 Star Specs as they were the only thing on the car I was worried weren’t going to be up for the heavy track sessions in the Sebring heat.

Quick review on my setup for the track day.

Suspension
TiC AST SST’s Coilovers with 9k/8k Swift Springs
Vorshlag Camber Plates Front and Rear
Whiteline Plus Bushings (Lateral Link, Rear Trailing Arm, Front Control Arm)
Whiteline Offset Caster Bushing
STi Pink Trailing Arms
Custom Wales Garage/Penguin Garage Alignment
-3.8 front camber, -2.2 rear camber, ZERO toe

Wheels/Brakes
17×10 +38mm Enkei RPF1
245/40/17 Dunlop Z1 Star Spec
ARP Wheel Studs
Project Mu Lug Nuts
Hawk DTC-70′s
DBA 4000′s

Engine
APS 3″ TBE
Cobb AP v1
Pro Tune by Jarrad
Koyo Radiator
Samco Radiator hoses
Greddy Oil Cooler

The Suspension setup was amazing, even with the very bumpy nature of Sebring International Raceway the TiC AST SST’s did amazing. The car absorbed all of the bumps and the car always felt stable. There was only a few “clean laps” where I wasn’t held up by traffic. Being in the Novice group I did run into alot of traffic, it wasn’t a terrible thing as this allowed me to focus on my driving line and less about going full throttle or late braking.

With the addition of the Koyo Radiator my water temp never budged, my Greddy Oil Cooler kept my oil temps in check even with the searing Sebring heat. My EGT gauge was showing some rather high EGT temps so I wasn’t pushing it 100% on the straights, only about 50% throttle on both straightaways. They peaked at 980c or about 1800f if I remember correctly. I’m tempted to get a new tune, as it’s been a few years, just to make sure the car isn’t running too hot. Any thoughts on the high EGT temps don’t hesitate to comment.

I can’t wait to go out to the next Sebring event, I hope to be down for the Redline event in August to see Turn In Concepts tear it up in the Florida heat.

Enough with the chat, on to more photos! Huge thanks to a fellow WRX driver and owner of Colour Tech South Motorsports Photography, LLC. Henry.

“The Limited Project,” the story –

Matt bought his 2007 Subaru Impreza WRX STI Limited in October 2006, there hasn’t been a dull moment with this car. Matt bought STi Limited #657/800, and has had a wrench in his hand until present day. That’s nearing four years of differing phases and modifications. This isn’t Matt’s first modified car, nor his first Subaru.

Matt’s modding addiction began with a 2006 Audi A3 2.0T. The car was a ton of fun, had a bit of refinement and luxury, but it was missing one key ingredient: AWD. Matt did everything he could to that car aside from pull the engine, but it was still not as fun as an AWD Subaru that could put the power down. That said, Matt has a bit of a bias for Subaru’s based on his history with them – Matt’s first car was a ’96 Subaru Forester, he also a had a 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STI. The 2007 Subaru Impreza WRX STI Limited featured here, and his 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STI that he uses for daily driving duties are currently in his garage. Needless to say, he has a bit of a thing for Subaru’s.

So, with Matt’s background in professional sports and being competitive in everything he does, he set his sights on his newly acquired ’07 STI Limited and decided to make it as fast and well built as his bank account would allow. The original goal was to have a very fast, but reliable, street car. That goal changed as he got further into the build and realized how much fun tracking the car was. At this point, the ultimate goal is to have a very competitive Subaru track car, one that can hang with the big boys – the Z06s, 911’s, GT-R’s, and the like.

Once his final goals were established, he got in touch with Rocket Rally Racing ( www.rocketrally.com), one of the premier Subaru and rally shops in Canada. The owner of the shop, Pat Richard, is a multiple National and North American rally champion. With many titles under his belt, as well as countless rally builds, street car builds, and road race car builds, Matt was 100% confident that this was the guy, and the shop, to take his 2007 Subaru Impreza WRX STI Limited to. He was 100% right, the end result is a car with a reliable 504WHP on the daily driving map (94 octane + 30:70 meth injection) and 573WHP on the race map (VP109 + meth).

The final build was completed late 2009. Matt only had time for one lapping event before the snow flew. He also hadn’t had time to get the suspension completely dialed in, nor were his alignment settings ideal. The end result was an extremely tail happy, loose, scary 500+WHP experience. Matt had some work to do over the winter break.

Current setup –
Fast forward to today, the work over the winter and spring has allowed Matt to get the car dialed in for the track. Here’s what has been done over the winter and spring:

Chassis prep:
Matt has done a large amount of weight reduction. Removing the entire A/C system, the OEM air pump is gone, the interior is gutted, the OEM subframe was swapped for an Oswald Performance lightweight subframe, a new lightweight battery replaced the heavy stock battery, and all sound deadening is removed. Matt also replaced his OEM hood and trunk with Seibon dry carbon fiber pieces. The dry carbon pieces are extremely lightweight, and very strong. All in all, pretty much anything else non-essential has been removed from the car.

To deal with downforce, Matt has a Voltex Type-2V, 1400mm wing. He also has an APR front splitter and diffuser about to go on.

Lastly, Matt had a 6-point roll cage welded in since he wasn’t allowed to compete without a cage and harness at his modification level.

Suspension:
Matt’s ride height is currently 13.5” in the front (hub to fender) and 13” in the rear. He’s running -3* camber up front, and -2.5* camber in the rear. Matt is going to be diallng in a little bit more front camber yet, to suit the R-compound tires.
Matt recently upgraded to Hyperco 12k/10k springs for his Ohlins Flag Series coilovers since the Eibach 8k/6k springs were absolutely not up to the task after installing the cage. With the incredible increase in chassis stiffness, those relatively soft springs were getting crushed in tight corners since the chassis was not absorbing or flexing at all. At this point, Matt has yet to try the 12/10’s on the track, but he has faith that it will definitely help his cornering stability.

Wheels/Tires:
Matt has two wheel/tire setups for a little function and a little form.
Street: For the street, Matt is running gunmetallic Advan RZ wheels in 18×9 +35mm offset. Mounted to those wheels are Yokohama Advan AD07 tires in 265/35R18.

Track: For the track, Matt needed a wheel that was stronger and lighter than the cast Advan’s, so Matt opted to go with a set of forged Volk Racing Wheels. The Volk Racing CE28n has always been one of his favorite wheels, so when the opportunity came up to buy a set of J-Spec (White with a Red Lip), 18×9 +35mm CE28n’s, He jumped all over it. Mounted to those wheels are Toyo R888’s in 255/35R18.

To get those wheels and tires to fit, Matt had to used my fender article as a guide to mutilate his rear fenders. I busted out the grinder, the ball peen and dead blow hammers, and took care of business.

So, at this point, everything should be set for the rest of the season of Solo Sprint. Matt’s next event is July 4th, so we all are looking forward to seeing how all the changes (suspension, aero, etc) work out since his last timed event.

On to the HUGE! Mod List

ENGINE
Heads/Cams:
1) Cosworth Big Valve, ported performance cylinder heads

Bottom end:
2) Crawford S3L-i with custom 8.2:1 billet pistons

Engine Management:
1) Autronic SM4
- SM4
- Prototype Knock Board
- Cable throttle conversion
2) Rocket Rally tune

Oiling:
1) Moroso Oil Pan and Pick-up tube assembly
2) Crawford A/O Separator
3) Shimmed OEM oil pump
4) Custom VTA breather system (more info to be posted later)

Fueling:
1) Deatschwerks 850cc injectors
2) Custom Rocket Rally motorsports fueling setup
- Custom surge tank
- All -AN fittings
- Aeromotive A1000
- Aeromotive fuel filter
- Aeromotive FPR
- Walbro in-tank Fuel Pump

Turbo:
1) APS TSR70 w/ 1.06A/R back housing (HPC 1600*F coating)

Intake:
1) APS TSR70 specific 80mm CAI

Exhaust manifold and UP:
1) APS Twinscroll Exhaust Manifold
2) APS Twinscroll Up-Pipe w/ Tial 44mm EWG

Exhaust:
1) APS R5 (3.5″) TBE

Intercooler:
1) APS DR725 FMIC w/ custom (reversed) I/C piping

Water Injection:
1) Aquamist HFS-5 w/ Spec C 12L tank

Intake manifold:
1) Flipped JDM Ver.9 manifold (no TGV’s) with custom I/C piping

BPV:
1) BOV block off plate (no BOV)

Radiator:
1) Koyo Racing Radiator
2) Samco Radiator hoses (black)

SUSPENSION
1) Q-Rack quick steering rack: 11.5:1 ratio
2) Ohlins Flag Series Coilovers
3) Hyperco 12k/10k springs
4) Whiteline 27-29mm Adjustable FSB
5) Whiteline 24mm RSB
6) Kartboy Front endlinks
7) Cobb Rear Endlinks

DRIVETRAIN
1) Group-A Subframe locking bolts
2) ACPT CarbonFiber Driveshaft
3) Cobb dual-adjustable STI short shifter
4a) Kartboy Front shifter bushings
4b) Kartboy Rear shifter stay bushings
4c) Kartboy shifter pivot bushings
4d) Kartboy shifter linkage bushings
5) TiC Tranny Crossmember bushings
6) Beatrush engine pitch stop mount
7) Group-N “Performance” hardened engine mounts
8 ) Group-N “Performance” hardened transmission mounts
9) Rocket Rally tuned Custom P-n-P DCCD controller
10) Oswald front subframe
11) 6-point MIG and TIG welded roll cage

Fluids:
1) Motul Competition FF 75W140 transmission oil
2) Motul Gear 75W90 rear differential fluid

WHEELS/TIRES
Track:
1) Volk Racing CE28N J-Spec (white/red) 18×9, +35mm. Toyo R888 255/35R18

Street:
1) Advan RZ, 18×9, +35mm. Yokohama Advan AD07 265/35R18

BRAKING
Calipers:
1) Stoptech 355mm 6-Pot BBK
2) OEM STI Brembo 2-pots

Rotors:
1) Stoptech 355mm slotted rotors
2) DBA 4000 slotted rotors

Pads:
Street:
1) Front – Ferodo 2500
2) Rear – Hawk HPS

Track:
1) Front – Hawk DTC70
2) Rear – Hawk DTC60

Fluid:
1) Motul RBF 660

Brake Lines:
1) Tecnafit stainless steel braided brake lines

EXTERIOR
1) Seibon Dry CF hood
2) Seibon Dry CF trunk
3) Voltex Type 2V 1400mm wing
4) APR front splitter
5) APR rear diffuser
6) Autospeed “STI” anodized black front licence plate filler
7) CF licence plate frame
8 ) 5-window tint
9) ’04/05 Tails
10) RavSpec CF exhaust shield (06/07 specific)
11) GrimmSpeed hood dampers
12) Painted headlight housings

INTERIOR
1) Mainly gutted
2) Bride Zeta III driver and passenger seat
3) G-Force 6-point harness
4) Gauges:
- Defi BF Amber 60mm gauges (OP, Boost, EGT)
- Defi clock pod, paint and texture matched
- Autometer Dual Gauge Pod Cluster bezel
- Innovate LC-1 WB02 + DB Gauge (red)
- Aquamist DDS3 Water injection gauge
5) Beatrush rear bulkhead division plate
6) Custom carbon fiber DIN-panel

WEIGHT REDUCTION
1) Estimated total weight reduction: 360.4lbs

Some Random Shots of Matt’s car over the years.

Above is a snapshot of Matt’s first set of Race Wheels, 18×8.5 +45mm Rays Engineering 57F.

Unloading @ Rocket Rally on his original BBS RE’s.

Matt’s Future Plans and Thank yous:
As weird as this sounds, I could see myself upgrading to a Full Race twinscroll 40R equivalent kit (but with the BW turbo). As if 500WHP isn’t enough. 600WHP+ would put a smile on anyone’s face!

Last but not least, a quick thank you –
The only company I’d really like to thank is Rocket Rally Racing. Through all the ups and downs of the various stages of my build (and believe me, there were some ugly downs), Pat Richard and Rocket Rally have stood behind their work 100%. The build itself, the tuning, the post-sales service, the customer support, and pretty much everything customer service related that you hope a company will offer, they do. I would and do suggest them to every person I talk to interested in major builds because they are truly a one stop shop.
www.rocketrally.com

As always any questions/comments don’t hesitate.

-T3h_Clap

I’d be willing to bet 90% of the people who read this blog know the car I’m about to feature. It isn’t one of those cars that’s known because it has 11ty billion dollars worth of body work or a huge stereo. This car is known because the car is a subtle well built 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STI with all the right parts.

About Dan aka BoostJunkie:

Dan began doing HPDE events in 2004, right after he bought his STi. A family friend suggested that Dan and his dad sign up for an event at VIR. No question, Dan was hooked.

Dan began branching out to other organizations like NASA, Mazdadrivers, Audi Club, Mercedes Club, and TrackDaze.

After he graduated college Dan decided to change the 2005 Subaru from a daily driver into a full time race car. At the beginning of the 2009 season, he completed a NASA TT license evaluation and went on to do a full season in the TTS class. Dan won the season championship for his class. Winning the class championship is a huge accomplishment and shows Dan’s dedication and ability.

The Car:

Every (ok 90%) of STi owners think it wont be necessary to modify their new car and we’re all wrong. Dan is no different and if you have followed Dan’s car over the last few years you know this is true. Dan had the opportunity/pleasure to work with the Myles @ Race Comp Engineering, this was two fold. RCE helped Dan learn the technical aspect of suspension tuning and RCE also began using Dan’s car to test new products on the street and track.

Over the next few years, Dan’s 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi went through many different suspension setups, and continued to modify other aspects of the car as well. Initially the goal was to create the ultimate dual purpose street and track car, and he was able to find a good balance between the two. A year or so ago, Dan got to the point where he was able to turn the car into a purpose built race car. Doing so is alot harder than it sounds. Turning a Street Car into a purpose built race car is more than “gutting and caging”, Dan learned this first hand.

Dan trusted IAG Performance in Westminster, MD with building a custom roll cage. A huge amount of weight was removed from the car, which meant pulling out all of the HVAC components, gutting the doors, and basically taking out everything in the car that wasn’t serving a purpose on track. The incredible increase in chassis stiffness required a suspension setup to match, so a set of JRZ RS Pro dampers were installed. IAG rolled and pulled the fenders to make room for a set of 275/35/18 Hoosier R6′s mounted on Enkei NT03+M’s in 18×9.5 +40. Leaving no aspect of the car’s setup untouched, a SARD carbon kevlar wing and a custom alumalite front splitter were installed to add some much needed downforce. Dan spent many hours stripping the cabin wiring harness and rewiring most of the electrical components to reduce weight.

Once the car was back together, Dan focused on dialing in the new suspension and getting used to driving the car. Dan’s lap times continued to shorten once Dan started fine tuning the new JRZ RS Pro’s. The car was now able to compete with the front runners in its class, and with a win and a second place finish in the two races during the second to last race weekend of the year, Dan had secured the TTS Championship.

The final race weekend of the season at Summit Point started off well, and Dan took second place on Saturday behind a very fast Corvette Z06. During the Sunday morning warm-up, the car suffered a brake line failure while entering Turn 1 at nearly 150mph. The car entered the gravel trap sideways and rolled 3 times, landing on the other side of the tire wall. Miraculously, Dan suffered only minor injuries and was able to climb of the car under his own power. The car, on the other hand, was damaged beyond repair. However, Dan already has started to rebuild the car, and already has a GD Impreza chassis to work with. With any luck, we will see a new and improved version of the car during the 2010 season.

Sponsors:

RaceComp Engineering:
Dan’s relationship with RaceComp Engineering goes back to 2005, when he began working there. Throughout the years, they have provided many parts for the car, including their swaybars, kool brake kit, GTWorx camber plates, and many parts from other manufacturers. They have also provided a great deal of input for chassis setup. Myles Williams, the company’s founder, has given Dan personal driver coaching, drawing on his many years of racing experience.

IAG Performance:
IAG Performance in Westminster, MD came on board as a sponsor about a year ago. They have done extensive fabrication work on the car, including the construction of the roll cage. They have also provided their header and external wastegate uppipe, as well as a few miscellaneous parts. IAG has performed much of the maintenance work on the car, including regular alignments, tire mounting and balancing, and ECU tuning. They have committed to being a key part of the build process for the new car, and even provided the chassis as a starting point. Their meticulous attention to detail produces incredible results, and their support has been essential to Dan’s success over the past season.

JRZ Suspension Engineering:
JRZ joined this project in the middle of the 2009 season, providing a set of their 2-way adjustable RS Pro dampers. They are externally adjustable for both compression and rebound, and also feature remote fluid canisters and adjustable nitrogen pressure. Their build quality and performance are both outstanding. Bryan Hise, the east coast representative for JRZ USA, has offered invaluable support and setup help.

Stoptech:
Stoptech provided one of their front big brake kits for this project, featuring ST-60 6 piston calipers and 355x32mm rotors. They have also offered ongoing support, supplying replacement rotors and a great deal of expertise pertaining to pad selection, operating temperatures, and more. Dan plans to continue his relationship with Stoptech and use one of their big brake kits on his new STi build.

Kaminari Aerodynamics/Racetech North America:
This past season, Kaminari supplied a set of their race lateral links, featuring 6061-T6 seamless tubing and rod ends that are rated at 28,000 lbs. They also provided a pair of their brake duct inlets, essential in feeding cool air to the front brakes. Dan also uses a Racetech RT4009HR seat, although he purchased it before his sponsorship agreement with Racetech North America. He is looking forward to working with them on his new project, as the quality of both their aerodynamic and mechanical parts is top notch.

Dan’s 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi was an amazing car and we all were stunned when we heard of his accident. Dan being “Ok” after his accident says a lot about Subaru and IAG’s cage work. This is a risk all of us take while we’re track our cars but we can choose to build and own safe cars.

The Mod list you’re about to scroll through looks more like a wishlist of the average STI owner. I can’t wait to see the new car once it is complete. (Scroll down for a few teaser shots of the new car).

Mod List:

Engine:

-Element Tuning GT52 turbo
-APS DR525 Intercooler
-Deatsch Werks 850cc Injectors
-GTSpec Equal Length Header
-IAG EWG Uppipe/Dumptube
-Tial 44mm Wastegate
-Mocal Oil Cooler/Thermostat
-Covert Performance Fuel Surge Tank
-Bosch Motorsport 044 External Fuel Pump
-Perrin Turbo Inlet
-APS 70mm CAI
-TGV Deletes
-Grimmspeed 8mm Phenolic Intake Manifold Spacers
-Element Tuning Competition Catch Can
-Koyo Aluminum Radiator
-Samco Radiator Hoses
-Invidia Bellmouth Downpipe
-Invidia N1 Race Full Titanium Catback
-Prodrive Boost Control Solenoid
-AEM 3.5 bar MAP Sensor w/ Cobb Adapter
-Cobb Accessport Version 2
-Protuned by Jorge at P&L
-374whp/365wtq (93 octane)
-419whp/437wtq (Sunoco GT100)
-Turbosmart Dual Port BOV
-Cusco Engine Mounts
-Walbro 255lph In-Tank Fuel Pump
-NGK 1 Step Colder Plugs
-Crucial Racing Thermostat
-Odyssey PC680 w/ Billet Mount

Suspension/Brakes:

-JRZ RS Pro Dampers
-GTWorx Camber Plates F+R
-Hyperco Main Springs/Swift Helper Springs
-Q-rack 11.5:1 Steering Rack
-RCE 25.5mm Adjustable Swaybars
-Kaminari Race Lateral Links
-Covert Performance Subframe
-Kartboy Rear Endlinks
-Whiteline Sport ALK
-Whiteline Roll Center Kit
-Whiteline Plus Trailing Link/Front Control Arm Bushings
-Kartboy Botox Bolts
-Greddy Front Strut Bar
-Stoptech 6-Piston 355mm Front BBK
-Cobb SS Rear Brake Lines
-Hawk DTC-70 pads
-Motul RBF600 Fluid
-RCE Kool Brake Kit
-Cusco Master Cylinder Brace

Transmission:

-Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
-STi Short Shifter
-Kartboy Front/Rear Shifter Bushings
-Cusco Transmission Mount
-Kartboy Subframe Outrigger Bushings
-TiC Rear Diff Mount Bushings

Wheels/Tires:

-Enkei NT03+M – 18×9.5 +40 w/ Hoosier R6 – 275/35/18 (dry)
-Enkei NT03+M – 18×9.5 +40 w/ Hoosier Radial Wets – 275/35/18 (wet)

Shop for Hoosier tires at Tire Rack.

Exterior:

-Cusco Front Lip
-Custom Alumalite front splitter
-SARD Carbon Kevlar Wing
-Kaminari Brake Duct Inlets
-Lightwerkz TSX Projector Headlight Retrofit
-Craft Square Carbon Fiber Side Mirrors
-Varis Carbon Fiber Exhaust Shield
-KS-Tech Hood Vent
-Sparco Hood Pins
-OEM WRX Sideskirts
-Rennline Front Tow Hook
-NRG Hood Struts
-Autospeed Front Bumper Trim
-Blue Batmobile Taillight Overlays
-Black i Badge
-Custom Vinyl by IAG Performance

Interior:

-Racetech RT4009HR Seat
-IAG Performance Custom Rollcage
-Schroth Profi II-Y Harness
-OMP Targa Steering Wheel
-Sparco Steering Wheel Hub/Quick Release
-Amerex 2.5lb. Halon Fire Extinguisher w/ Brey Krause Mount
-Defi Amber BF Boost/EGT/Oil Press. Gauges
-Allview Racers Mirror
-Custom Carbon Fiber Switch Panel
-Custom Lightweight Wiring Harness
-Gutted Doors w/ Removable Front Windows
-Removed A/C and Heater Core
-Removed Intercooler Sprayer System
-Removed All Interior Panels/Carpet/Sound Deadening, Gutted Stock Dash
-Lathe Werks Copolymer Shift Knob

As always don’t hesitate to post comments/questions.

-t3h_Clap

The guys at Rays Engineering and gram Lights have released a new wheel. This wheel looks awesome, especially in the blue.

Gram Light 57 Ultimate and 57 Ultimate SC come in a lot of sizes. Not too many Subaru friendly wide ones but there are plenty to satisfy the guys wanting a lower offset.

Gram Light 57 Ultimate

Gram Light 57Ultimate

Here are the sizes for the 57 Ultimate

Gram Light 57 Ultimate Sizing

Gram Light 57 Ultimate SC

Gram Light 57Ultimate SC

Here are the sizes for the 57 Ultimate SC

Gram Light 57 Ultimate SC Sizing

Caliper Clearance and basic fitment.

The guys at Rays taking a little spin on a basic design.

They don’t list any of the 9.5″ wheels as clearing the STI Brembos. If they clear the EVO they’ll clear the STI brembos (at least they should). The 18×9.5 +30mm will be a nice “aggressive” fitment on either the GR or GD STi.

Aggressive STI fitment version 9.5″

How To: Properly Modify 05-07 GD STi Rear Fenders

A few of my articles on getting 9.5′s to fit.

Any questions on fitment don’t hesitate to comment or shoot us an email.

It took awhile for the Gram Light 57D to show up on an STI, I wonder how long it’ll take for someone to run these.

-T3h_:Clap:

Advan has done it again. Releasing yet another wheel that makes people drool over their computer key boards or for a lucky few drool on the Yokohama model at TAS earlier this year. Enough talk, look at the new Advan RG-D and Advan RZ-DF.

Advan RG-D

Advan RZ-DF

Yokohama had their current wheel line on display at TAS. Everyone of us would love to have these displays in our living room.

Advan RS and RS-D

Advan RG2 and RG-D

Advan RC3 and Super Advan V2

Advan RZ and Advan RZ-DF Display at TAS

NEW! Advan RG-D

It seems Advan only gave out Black versions of their wheels for the cars on display, not my favorite wheel color but I have to post these.

Advan RG-D EVO X

Nissan 370z with New Advan RG-D

Yokohama Advan RG-D on a Nissan Silvia S15

Green GT3-RS on RZ-DF's, need I say more?

On to the close ups.

First off the Forged, yes I said FORGED, Advan RZ-DF. If you like lip, get ready for some Pr0n.

Advan RZ-DF

Advan RZ-DF "not Matte Black"

Advan RZ-DF Matte Black

RZ-DF close up on Display

Now on to the Advan RG-D, I didn’t think the RG2 could look better. I was wrong, very wrong.

Advan RG-D

Advan RG-D in Silver

Advan RG-D Matte Black

These wheels will start being available later this summer, who is going to be the first to slap a set on an STI or an EVO? Who is going to be the first to have a set on www.T3hclap.com?

Stay tuned for some fitment talk regarding the new Advan RG-D and RZ-DF wheels.

3 Magazines

What do these three magazines have in common?

1.) Awesome cars
2.) Subarus
3.) Excellent Wheel Selection
4.) All on T3hClap.com!

First is Performance Auto and Sound and Bill’s 06 STI.  He’s been on the blog more than once.

Want to be Aggressive? Are you willing to do what it takes?

How To Be Aggressive Version 2.0

Bill's 06 STI +22mm Volk Racing TE37s

Next is magazine #2 Modified Magazine and Logan’s Top Scoob winning GRB STI.

Logan’s Top Scoob Winning GR STi w/ 18×10’s!

Logan's Top Scoob STI

18x10.5 +22mm Prodrive GC010Gs

Magazine Number 3 is DSport. The article is about a Subaru Owner named Jamie, I putting together his feature this month.

Insane Jane

18x9.5 CCW C14's!

3 Magazines, 3 Features all of them on this one blog.

It’s awesome to see all of these cars on the newsstands!

Go pick them up TODAY!

-T3h_Clap

We currently run a 205/50/15 Bridgestone RE11 on our Toyota Yaris. It is a 2007 Toyota Yaris with 15×7 wheels and some SilkRoad Coilovers. We have autox’d and daily driven on these and they are exceptional. The grip is amazing and surprisingly they’ve had great longevity. The Bridgestone RE11 is also surprisingly quiet, which isn’t always common with extreme performance tires. We went with a slightly shorter than stock tire this time around to help with the gearing for Autox. It hasn’t hurt MPG much if any. We got them @ tire rack for a great price, makes me wish the STi could run 15″ tires. For “extreme performance” tires I like to try as many tires as possible so our next tire will be something new, but I wouldn’t hesitate to suggest these tires to anyone looking for a great dual duty tire. I look forward to more daily miles and more autoxs on these Bridgestone RE11′s.

A set of rare GramLights popped up on the market a week or two ago. Someone is going to have a sweet setup.

FS: GramLight 57Optimise White (IWSTI)

These clear Brembos on the STi and would be a great fit on a 2008-2011 STi or a nice aggressive setup on a 2005-2007 STi. The owner is getting me a few more photos to post up but here are the specs.

Wheel: GramLight 57Optimise

Size: 18×9.5 +38mm 5×114.3

Color: White

Tires: 275/35/18 Dunlop Z1 Star Spec

Condition: Brand New 0 Miles

Fits: 05-11 STi

This setup requires fender work on all STi’s, the GD versions requiring more due to their smaller fenders. The GDs require coilovers with camber plates front and rear
(-3.0 front -2.0 rear) and fender rolls all around plus a pull in the rear. The GR/GV’s require a fender roll in the rear and some extra camber.

I can’t wait to see these on someones STi.

-T3h_Clap

The Bridgestone RE760 Sport is my personal favorite daily driver summer tire. Meaning, if you don’t need a tire to do track/autox duty then these are the tire for you. They grip, they have great life, and the best part for anyone who has had Bridgestone RE070′s or Dunlop Z1 Star Specs is the Bridgestone RE760 Sport is quiet.  I’m ok with a loud exhaust, loud engine noise, and some road noise. Having excessively loud tires is something I prefer to have on the track/autox. The 760Sports are easily the #1 tire I recommended to people. It really is a great tire, I plan on ordering another set when my current set dies, I’ve never said that about another tire.

Volk Racing RE30's For Sale!

I don’t normally post for sale ads on the blog but these wheels deserve a post. These are the famous White 18×9.5 +35mm Volk Racing RE30s from Mr. Adam aka BM_STi aka AdamBOMB_STi. Some of you may recognize Adam’s car from one of my first articles “9.5″ Wheels on a GD Impreza”.

Adam was the inspiration for that article. If you’re looking for an aggressive setup for your STi, you’re in luck because they are for sale!! Adam is moving on to some bigger wheels for some unknown plans. Either way, someone needs to pick these up as they’ll work perfectly on any GR/GV or with some work a GD.

This is the original Proper Fitment setup, big wheels, big tires, loads of grip. One of the first GD Imprezas with 9.5s.

Specs:

Volk Racing RE30 White

5×114.3 18×9.5 +35mm L1 Face

Bridgestone RE01R 265/35/18

Brembo Clearance: 05 – 11 STi

For Sale Thread: CLICK HERE!!

Current Asking Price 1/17/11: $2500 + shipping/fees

2004.7 Subaru Impreza WRX STi Volk Racing RE30

Whoever buys these needs to send me some photos of them on their car. These white Volk Racing RE30s would look perfect on a WRB 2011 STi Sedan. Who is up for the challenge.

You can contact Adam via Nasioc (AdamBOMB_STi) or IWSTI (BM_STi). You can also shoot me an email or leave a comment.

I will keep this post updated when he sells them, hopefully slap a few pics of them on their new owner’s car.

If there are any questions on fitment for your car/setup don’t hesitate to comment or email.

-Drew

This car I’m about to feature is one many of us have seen floating around the internet. Be it on IWSTI, Nasioc, or his own Blog Pin It To Win It.

Tim is no different then the rest of us, he chose a modification plan, he talked to vendors, he bought his parts, he got local subie guys to help, he dropped his car off at EFI and he drives the piss out of it!

Alright, there are a few differences. First Tim chose to put the smaller 16″ Specification brakes off the JDM 16″ Specification Spec C STi. These brakes use the same caliper as the 06/07 WRX here in the US but with a different sized rotor, 5×114.3 and properly sized for the rear parking brake and R180.

Why go to the smaller brakes you ask? one word. Abilitytofit15inchrallytires. As many of you know the Brembos require a minimum of a 17″ wheel. There are very very few rally tires made in sizes larger than 15″. This leaves little choice for people wanting true rally tires. Little brakes and 15″ wheels here we come!

Tim first saw the WRC on SPEED channel back when it aired more then NASCRAP. He was 12 years old and was instantly hooked. Tim like many of us used to stay up until midnight to watch. Tim’s favorite team was of course Subaur WRT and he quickly became obsessed with the WRC Subaru Impreza WRX STi. After Tim graduated college and nailed down his first “Grown up” job he bought his STi. This is the first car he’s modded if you can believe that.

Another similarity between Tim and the rest of us is that he built this car to compete in multiple different types of racing and more than one rule book. He shot for both NASA/USRC and RallyAmerica. Building the car to be eligible for both associations allow Tim to run more events and enjoy the car more.

Ok, ok lets be honest. Tim is a little crazier then alot of us. haha. He did put a huge 4 light pod, full cage, and removed the interior in a perfectly good 2006 STi. What did he end up with? A perfect hill climbing rally monster that not only looks the part but also performs! I can’t wait to see more video/photos/info on Tim’s Rally Bagger.

This RallyBagger was built with the help of a few key vendors/people.

Most Important – EFI Logics – simply put Chris and his crew are the best. No words describe them!

EFI Logics

Sunshine Sign for all the graphics and continued stickering of the car

Sunshine Sign

Rallispec, TurnInConcepts, and HMS Motorsport for helping out with some of the build

Turn In Concepts
Ralli Spec
HMS Motorsport

Of course a link to the Teams site

Pin It To Win It Blog

Tim has a busy schedule coming up, good luck!

Upcoming events

Rallies
January 23-24th Winter Rally New York – Snow
April 16-17th Rally New York – Tarmac
July 16-17th New England Forest Rally – Gravel
September 10-11th International Rally NY – Gravel

Hill Climbs (Dates not established yet)
Mt. Ascutney I: May
Burke I: June
Okemo I: July
Okemo II: August
Burke II: August
Mt. Ascutney II: September
Philo: October

Mod List

Engine/Turbo
Stock VF39
EFI Logics Custom Race Exhaust
COBB SF intake
COBB AP2
Gimmick MAF tube
GroupN Engine mounts
Kartboy Pitch Stop

Suspension/Driveline
DMS 50mm Gravel Coilovers
GroupN top hats
Every bushing TiC offers – Seriously
GroupN tranny mount
GroupN Engine mounts
Rear lock down bolts

Interior
Cobra Suzuka GT seats
Terratrip Kill switch
DEFi gauges/control unit
Terratrip Intercom
Terratrip Rally computer
Schroth 6 point Profi Harnesses
Terratrip Map Lights
Custom Rally Spec cage built by Chris Howard

Exterior
Custom Vinyl by Voodoo Graphics (a division of Sunshine Sign)
Custom Rallybagger mud flaps
Roof Vent
Prodrive Carbon Fiber replica Light Pod
Hella 700FF Driving lights x2
KC Hilites 50 series x2

Brakes/Wheels/Tires
JDM GroupN rotors
JDM GroupN calipers
Hawk HP+ pads
SS lines
ATE Superblue fluid
SpeedLine 15×7” Corse 2020 cast magnesium
BBS 17×8” STi – Tarmac
Hankook Ventus rs202 Gravel tires
Kumho KW19 studded Snow tires
ToyoR888 Tarmac tires

Logan’s GR STI was voted the Top Scoob in Nasioc’s world famous Top Scoob poll. Shortly you’ll see why if you don’t already know. It’s rarely easy to modify a Subaru, Logan’s GR STI is no different. It took time, dedication and a very thought out modification path. Logan stuck with it and is now driving around in a Top Scoob.

I’ve got the current Top Scoob himself Logan here to chit chat about his setup a little. This car looks amazing. skip the small talk, here is Top Scoob Logan’s GR Subaru Impreza WRX STI with 18×10 Advan RZ’s.

T3h_Clap: First things first, is this your first Subaru? if not, what are some of your other/older Subarus?

Logan: Yes actually, this is my first to car heavily mod. I was just planning on going stage 2 because I wanted something reliable and turbod and exhaust, but the Subaru mod fever struck.

T3h_Clap: why the GR STi?
Logan: I wanted a new engine to work with. Something that someone hasn’t done a thousand times. So I got the new body style to create something different and I knew it would be fresh. I love the GD chassis, but i hope Subaru discontinues the hatchback sti soon. I want it to only be made two years. Kind of hoping its just a random quirky Subaru that wasn’t over populated and over viewed. haha if that makes sense.

T3h_Clap: What did you build the car for? (Street/Track/Dual/Drag/Autox etc?)
Logan: Daily Driving, but the Track is where I am headed, so that’s my next step in plans. Since I lived in Missouri, there are not any places to track, now in Florida I am trying to find some tracks besides Daytona.

T3h_Clap: What are the specs on your wheels/Tires? Any special requirements to get them to fit?
Logan: the wheels are Advan Rz 18×10 +30 tires are nexen 3000 (****ty tires, cause wheels cost too much ha) 275/35/18 and all four fenders are rolled to fit. Camber is -2.5 front -2.4 back. My ride height is just above slammed on the bc coils.

T3h_Clap: Any plans on going to a wider wheel/tire?
Logan: As soon as I finish school plan on fitting some 18x11s on there with 295s or 305s. Just to say it can be done, but obviously not for tracking.

T3h_Clap: Any plans doing competitive racing?
Logan: Not really, since I’m still in college for recording arts and music business, I’m going to pursue this for a while and the keep the cars hobbies and fun for now, would deff get out there when i have some down time at some Time Attack events or something. that would be the ****.

T3h_Clap: Where can people see the car? (meets/shows/track events?)
Logan: Every week down in Orlando, there is a Wednesday night meet at the sonic on south Semoran. And there is an AWD meet coming up. Also look for my car in Modified Mag thanks to Peter.

T3h_Clap: Quick blurb about you and your car, any notable hang ups, funny stories.
Logan: This car has been the biggest pain in the ass, but the most love owning it. Hauling it up to Chicago and watching Jorge drive away in your car after being tuned and watching it rip down the road. Makes me smile real big! But OMG! every install something weird and out of the ordinary pops up and causes problems. But that’s part of it being a Subaru I guess.

T3h_Clap: Shout out to Friends, Forums, Blogs, Sponsors, Vendors, Photogs, Family.
Logan: I would like to thank,
My family and friends!
Jorge and the whole crew at P and L Motorsports
Josh from importimage
Bryan from CVR Motorsports
Dave at SKPerformance
Perrin
TIC

Great looking car, not hard to see why he won the Top Scoob title for best GR on Nasioc.

This is one hell of a mod list:

Engine & Exhaust:

Pro tuned by jorge at P & L
Accessport Engine Management
Invidia N1 Race
Cobb Lightened Pulley
SPT Oil Cap
Samco Radiator Hoses
SPT Battery Tie Down
EBCS
Royal Purple 5W-30
Subtle Radiator Shroud
P&L FMIC
GT35R Rotated .82 A/R
P&L CAI
P&L Catless DP (ceramic coated)
P&L EWG Up Pipe (ceramic coated)
Perrin EL Headers (ceramic coated)
Pnp Intake Manifold
TGV Deletes (ceramic coated)
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Tial 44mm Wastegate
Tial 50mm BOV
Deatschwerks 850cc Injectors
NGK Iridium Plugs
Perrin Catch Can

Interior:

Bride Cuga Front Seats
Bride Door Pulls
Bride Shift Boot
Bride eBrake Boot
Bride Center Arm Rest
Wedge Engineering Rails
Prosport Gauges:
Boost
Oil Pressure
Oil Temp
EGT
AEM Uego Wideband AFR
JL HD Amp with Custom sub enclosure with 12″ JL Sub
JL Cleansweep (to keep my Nav)
STI Red Pedal Kit
Painted Interior Pieces
DIY A-pillar Triple Pod
Viper 5901 Alarm System
Alcantara wrapped Steering Wheel

Drivetrain:

Cobb Double Adjustable short shifter
Kartboy Front Shifter Bushings
SPT Rear Shifter Bushing
Cobb Knob
IXIS Clutch Optimizer
Group N Tranny Mount
Group N Motor Mounts
Kartboy Crossmember Bushings
Kartboy Pitch Stop
ACT HD Street Clutch
Motul Gear300
Motul 90PA Rear Diff Fluid

Exterior:

Seibon CF CW Hood – Painted
CS Bottom Line Kit – Painted
15% Tint
Hella Supertones – Painted
Painted Grill
Painted Fog Light Housings
RA Mudflaps – trimmed
DRL Delete
Rally Yellow Fog Overlays
ROLLED FENDERS
Rear Wiper Delete
Perrin Shorty Antennae
BlueBatMobile Tail Covers
Angel Eyes from Lightwerkz
Smoked Headlight Relfectors
Smoked Rear Reflectors
Painted Logos/Badges
Nukabe Tow Hook
CF Front Bumper Vents

Wheels & Suspension:

BC Racing Coilovers
Advan RZ 18×10 +30 in Gunmetal
Nexen N3000 275/35/18
Whiteline Camber Bolts
Front Camber Bolts
Whiteline Rear Subframe Inserts
Perrin Strut Brace
Perrin 22mm F Sway Bar
Perrin 22mm R Sway Bar
5Zigen Locking Lugs Blue

-T3h_Clap

I don’t normally go on Rants, but it’s about time someone did. This needs to happen.

After the most recent post about the new tire rack website I got more than a few comments stating the following.

“Can we pick wheel size now?”

“Oh, it’s just a tire selection, no wheel selection?”

“Can we reverse search wheel size?”

unfortunately the answer to all of the above is no.

I, among many other enthusiasts want to be able to select and BUY wheels from tire rack that we know will work. LET US PICK A SIZE!

I don’t want to have to use a “big wheel STI” (aka 96 Toyota Supra) to search for anything wider than 8.5″ for my STI.

Everyone I’ve talked to is willing to give up their “return if doesn’t fit” ability to have this function.

I understand “WHY” tire rack doesn’t have this feature available to everyone, people go to tire rack for a no questions asked fitment. Well tire rack, I want to say that there are some of us that know we can make a setup work. Sure we can call in and talk to a select few of your amazing customer service/sales guys who know how to fight their way through the system, but we should be able to do it online!

Especially with Tire Rack now carrying some of the bigger names in the import market (Namely Rays, Weds) they are a great option for us not only to search but to also buy!

Is there anyone else out there that thinks Tire Rack needs wheel size selection?

Allow me to pick Bolt Pattern, Width Range, Offset Range and Diameter Range. Hell Tire Rack has the software to also know special factory brake clearance. *hint* *hint* although the last part isn’t a pre-requisite for us getting what we want.

Add your comments in support or against Tire Rack adding this functionality!

-t3h_Clap

Looks like Tire Rack took a hint from the guys over at Rays and decided to integrate some new goodies.

Check it out! http://www.tirerack.com

The new functionality is really going to make things easier to navigate. Gotta love progress!

Comments on if you like or dislike the change?

265/35/18s….new street tires maybe?

-t3h_clap

The magic delievery person dropped off Two boxes from the Famous TiC. I had gotten an email from Clint saying they shipped and I was anxiously waiting for my TiC SSTs. They only took 3 days to get here! For those not familiar with the Turn In Concept spec AST Coilover system here are some teaser photos until I get everything assembled.

Turn-In-Concept SST Coilovers

TiC’s Strut assemblies are made by AST to TiC SST specifications. TiC offers their coilovers with Swift Main Springs, Swift Helper Springs, and Swift Thrust Washers. I chose to go with the Vorshlag Camber Plates front and rear as well. They also come with a very detailed document on the assembly and care of your new suspension (rare to find that now-a-days).

This specific set of TiC SSTs runs the same setup as their Time Attack winning WRX with stiffer and shorter Swift Springs. I’ll be running 9k front and 8k rear, both front and rear are 6″ Springs. Once Clint & Tony knew the ride height and planned use for the suspension we custom tailored the spring choice to meet my needs.  Thank you again Clint and Tony!

Now More Pictures!

Below you’ll see some more snap shots of the 6″ 9k/8k Swift Main Springs, Swift Helper Springs, and Vorshlag Camber plates.

Vorshlag Camber plates were chosen because of their short stack height and additional caster. Along with the Whiteline offset caster bushings I should be able to maximize caster without having too much.

Still working out the final alignment and ride height settings.

Shooting for around -3.0 front and -1.7 to -1.8 rear camber and as much Caster as we get.

Car will be corner balanced so the ride height wont be exact but we’re shooting for about 14″ front 13.75″ rear + or – .25″

Everything is coming together, stay tuned!

I don’t normally post random “holy crap this is awesome” posts, but there is a first for everything.

The recently updated Rays Engineering site is really amazing. The functionality is increased along with speed and usability.

http://www.rayswheels.co.jp

Check it out and give me your thoughts.

This will make searching easier and should help expose some of the lesser known Rays brands.

More screen shots from the website, I love the brand selection filter and size filter.

I’m heading to STU. I want to get back to street tires.

I’ll be putting together a few articles with the build progress and parts accumulation.

The build is going to be a simple STU build. Suspension, Bushings, Wheels, Tires and Driver tuning.

Round 1: Bushings, Mounts, Shifter from Turn In Concepts

As you see we’ve got a nice little box of goodies going in.

Turn In Concepts sent out the first round of goodies, and I couldn’t be happier!

Thank you again Clint and Tony.

Looking forward to the day I can get the new bushings and mounts installed.

July 2nd 2009; Ordered a set of TiC SSTs with custom spring rates and more bushings from Turn In Concepts.

Also, just got off the Phone with the Earl @ Touge Factory and put down the deposit for the new Wheels.

Busy lunch hour. haha.

Stay tuned for more updates.

-t3h_clap

You read that right, 100% stock suspension 2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STi with 9.5″ wheels! Quick background on the car/owner. Ben Wales has had a slew of Subarus over the years. What you see below is a 2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STI aka. Batscubie #5.

17x9.5 +44mm Enkei NT03+M 245/45/17

This STi was recently bought when Ben traded in Batscubie #4 aka. the Wraith. Ben had these 17×9.5 +44mm Enkei NT03+M’s on Batscubie #4 (08 STi) with some 275s. Ben wanted to compete in STU with the 2006 STI so he kept the 9.5 Enkei’s and bought some 245′s.

Ben Wales Batscubie #5 9.5 Enkeis 2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STI

Batscubie #5 is one of the luckiest GD Imprezas out there. Two days after picking it up from the dealership Ben had mounted up his new wheel/tire combo. Brand new 245/45/17 Bridgestone RE760 Sports mounted on to the 17×9.5 +44mm Enkei NT03+M’s. Batscubie #5 was rocking a set of Enkei NT03+M’s in 17×9.5 +44mm offset on a stock suspension STI!? You may ask, 245′s on a 9.5″ wheel? Well the answer to that question is simple, SCCA Solo2 STU requires a 245 tire max. 2nd question is why not RE-11′s? Well the answer to that question is simple too, Ben Wales from Wales Garage in Ft. Lauderdale loves any excuse to push Bridgestone’s best tires to the test. RE-11′s are coming later this year….errr. Maybe I wasn’t supposed to let that part out. Sorry Ben, secrets out.

2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STI GD 17x9.5 Stock Suspension

Ben’s Batscubie #5 is a 2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STI with Stock STI Springs, Stock STI Struts, Stock STI Front and Rear Sway Bars, and Stock un-Molested Rear Fenders. You read that right, un-Molested Rear Fenders. The reason he isn’t rubbing in the rear is simple, +44mm offset and 245/45/17 tire. This combination allows the wide wheel/tire setup to stay clear of the rear fenders (even while autoxing).

245/45/17 Bridgestone RE760 9.5 Enkei STU STI

I’m not going to lie, the stock suspension’s height (aka. 4×4 status) does the Batscubie #5 a favor. With a lower suspension and still stock fenders this 2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STi would rub.

The is not alot of room inboard with this 17×9.5 +44mm and 245/45/17 setup. This is the same wheel seen on Jaimie’s Car (Seen Here). The offset requires careful calculation with inboard clearances, as there can be rubbing if the coilover is wider than the factory strut bodies, or too much camber is dialed in via camber bolts.

Ben Wales 2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STi 17x9.5 Stock Suspension

There you have it, 9.5″ wheels with a proper offset are capable of fitting on a 100% stock suspension when running a 245 tire. Any offset lower than a +40mm will most likely rub on the rear fenders, going any higher than +45mm will cause rubbing inboard.

Ben’s 2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STi has alot instore for the up coming months, I can’t let everything out of the bag just yet so here’s the current mod-list.

Wheels/Tires:
Enkei NT03+M 17×9.5 +44mm
Bridgestone RE760 Sport 245/45/17

Suspension:
100% Stock

Power:
APS 3″ Turbo Back
Cobb AP

Interior:
Defi Amber BF Boost Gauge
Schroth Harness for Autox’s

Exterior:
Wingless WRX Trunk

Keep your eyes peeled for future Batscubie articles, and as always any questions/comments feel free to post or email.

Jon is aiming to be TopScoob 14 this coming Month, and based on what I’ve seen he’s got a damn good chance. Equipped with some 18×9.5 +32 Prodrive GC-010G’s and 255/35/18 Bridgestone RE-11s he’s got himself a little track animal. With nearly 10 track days under his belt in this 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STI, Jon has let this animal run free on more than a few of his local and not so local road courses. This car doesn’t just look amazing, it also performs thanks to a tried and true suspension from KW and a Yimi Sport Tune of his Cobb AP v2.0 (kinda sorta Stage2 Protune). Enough of the Intro lets get to the details. Jon will also be competing in this months Redline Time Attack @ Big Willow. I’m excited to see some results from all his seat time. Enough of the Intro lets get to the details.

Jon is on his 8th Subaru. One of the many Subaru owners sucked into the community by his roommates and closest friends. Jon’s nicely modified A4 (with the infamous 1.8T) couldn’t keep up to his friend’s WRX. As with the rest of the community one drive and you’re hooked. “It’s what makes a Subaru a Subaru”. Jon’s story about why he loves Subaru isn’t uncommon. Jon had bought a 1993 Subaru Impreza L wagon with aspirations to swap in the bigger and better WRX drivetrain into his poor unsuspecting L, something else unsuspected happened. He had an unfortunate accident where his Subaru Impreza L Wagon rolled during a Road Rally. Luckily, Jon had chosen the right car, the little L saved his life and like many other fortunate Subaru Owners, Jon walked away unscathed. Not only did a Subaru save Jon’s life but it also introduced him to some of his closest friends and one of the best communities of Owners in the Industry. Jon says it best “I am so thankful for the friendly Subaru community and all my close friends that I have met because of Subaru.”

Ready To Pounce 08 STI

Jon took his previous street car (Subaru Legacy Spec.B) and his previous track car (Mazda Mazdaspeed Miata) and traded them both in on this sexy Obsidian Black Pearl 2008 STI. It was hard to say no to some of the offers Subaru was putting on the table. Eventually, Jon just broke down and decided it was time to get back on the track in a Subaru, and just for kicks decided he’d Daily Drive it too! This animal of an STI has been to Buttonwillow, Willow Springs, Streets of Willow and Auto Club Speedway all driven by Jon himself (gotta tune the nut between the seat and the wheel!). 

Prodrive GC-010G 18x9.5 +32mm and 255/35/18 RE01Rs

Jon’s performance path is best described by him, he’s not one of the uniformed consumers who just buy random stuff because they like the name or found it in a magazine.

“All of the parts on this car have been carefully selected in comparison to the past where I would find just the best deals. I owe a lot to my sponsors, Ferdie at South Coast Subaru who has guided me the whole way through the build of this car and also my tuners both Paul Yim and Paul Leung of YimiSport Tuning in Santa Clarita, CA. They have been nothing but supportive and have encouraged me to be competitive in Time Attack races.”

YimiSport Tuning should sound familiar for you loyal blog readers, they also tuned the Family Man’s track car owned by Jamie. The guys at YimiSport Tuning in Santa Clarita are turning out some amazing vehicles. The Time Attack circuit is going to get attacked by a full squad of YimiSport Tuning cars.

Jon's 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STI rolling shot 18x9.5s!

Jon’s car is getting some well deserved exposure in a few publications here in the future, keep your eyes open.

It’s up to the Nasioc Subaru Community to vote for the next Top Scoob and I’ve got my vote in for Jon.

I’m going to have to get a review from Jon on how he likes the new RE-11′s once he gets done with a few more events.

And it’s up to Jon to get out there and show some of the big dogs who’s boss out there on the Time Attack Circuit!

The Modlist:

Wheels/Tires:
Prodrive GC-010G 18×9.5 +32 (Type L lip, Type M face)
Bridgestone Potenza RE-11 255/35/18 (for Time Attack Street Class)
Project Kics R40 Lugnuts

Suspension/Brakes:
KW Clubsports 9k/9k
Cobb Front Sway
Whiteline Rear Sway
Whiteline Rear Sway brackets
Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings
Whiteline Roll Center Kit
Whiteline ALK
Whiteline Chassis Brace
Cusco Rear Lateral Links
Hawk HP+ F+R (Street)
Project Mu Level Max 900 F+R (Track)
Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Motul RBF600

Engine:
Invidia Catted DP
Milltek Catback exhaust (same as on the Litchfield Type 20)
AEM Cold Air Intake
Perrin Turbo Inlet
Tomei EXpreme Equal Length Header w/ uppipe
Prodrive BCS
Prodrive Battery Tie Down
Prodrive Oil Cap
Crawford Performance A/O Separator
Cobb AP V2 (from my Spec.B )
YimiSport ProTune w/ Launch Control and Flat Foot Shifting
300 whp 357 wtq

Exterior:
Varis Front Lip (Dry Carbon)
PIAA Plasma Ion 9006 Foglight Bulbs
BlueBatmobile Rear Taillight overlays
17% Tint

Interior:
Recaro SPG
Bride FO Rails
Kenwood DNX-7120 Navi Headunit
SWI-JACK
Prova Shift Knob
JDM Subaru AV Panel
Rally Innovations Harness Bar
Schroth Profi II ASM Harness

Super Thanks to:
My understanding girlfriend for my obsession 
Ferdie at South Coast Subaru
The Pauls at Yimi Sport Tuning
Firestone of Rowland Heights
Team SCS: vinceGC8, samleeiii, Dr.Chu

-t3h_Clap

As many of you know One Lap of America is underway and each day we slowly get more and more updates from the participants and the Motorsports Media.

Earlier this year I got a PM from a guy looking to compete in One Lap of America, he had some standard fitment questions that we helped figure out. Although he did have one criteria that I don’t normally consider when helping with a Race Car’s wheel/tire fitment.

The guys at Moroccan Gold Imports needed a tire that could be Streetable, Track Ready, perform on the Wet Skid Pad, AND still have tread 2/32nd’s of tread after it’s all said and done!! Talk about a feat, I let the guys worry about the rest of the car. R.J. set the requirements of what was needed and we bounced back and forth for a few weeks. He decided to run a sick tire setup. Kumho Ecsta XS in a 275/40 slapped on some 17×9 +42mm on some 17×9 +42mm wheels.

Yes this is the infamous car to get pulled over by the Florida Highway Patrol and get featured in Motortrend!!

http://wot.motortrend.com/6535014/one-lap-of-america/busted-florida-highway-patrol-1-team-moroccan-gold-imports-0/index.html

Photo Courtesy of Motortrend

For updates on the MGI One Lap of America team check out their Blog http://www.moroccangoldimports.com/

They’ve been updating it daily with plenty of videos and pics! Go MGI!!

The car looks great all stickered up. Keep taking down the competition!

Good luck guys!

-T3h_Clap

The car is a 2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STi with a full Zero/Sports goodies and Volk Racing TE37s. Many people inside and outside of the Subaru community are familiar with the car that I’m about to feature (for a 2nd time). Bill Vitale has done it yet again, he sets the bar for Aggressive fitments. The first time Bill set the bar was over 14 Months ago with his 18×9 +29mm Advan RS’s.  Bill’s most recent overhaul included more than just fresh wheels and suspension. He decided it was time to go Rotated, a GT30R no less. 
 

9.5 +22mm TE37

Getting an 18×9.5 +22mm TE37 with a 255 to fit on any Subaru takes considerable effort and planning. Bill, as always, was willing to do what it takes to have one of the most aggressive setups on an GD STi.

Bill’s fresh new Engine bay oozes goodness, from the custom powdercoated Valve Covers and Intake manifold (Flipped of course) to the Polished Compresser Housing on his GT30R. Cooling is handled by the Mishimoto Radiator and a Perrin Front Mount Intercooler with Custom Piping from Area 1320. The Stance GR+ coilovers and H Kansai Service Strut tower bar finish off the engine bay nicely.

Top Scoob

Bill took the prestigious award of “Top Scoob #013″ this past week, His well thought out and prepped Subaru went head to head with multiple other highly modified Subarus. I have an incling it was more than just this photo that won “Top Scoob #013″

TE37s 06 STI

 
Winning Top Scoob isn’t easy, the 18×9.5 +22mm Concave TE37s and the accompanying 255/35/18 Nitto Invo tires  didn’t simply bolt on. Getting this setup to fit required some extensive fender modifcations from the Bill and Vitale Collision. The stiffness and adjustability from the Stance GR+ coilovers helped significantly in getting the Massive Concave TE37′s to fit right. The coilovers allowed Bill to run a -3.0 front and -3.1 rear camber. The combination of the Coilovers, Fender Modifications and the Camber allowed Bill to run this crazy rarely seen aggressive setup.

18x9.5 +22mm TE37 Aggressive Fitment 06 STI

Floating around the internet I’ve seen Bill’s car pop up on Japanese, Australian, Hungarian, Malaysian, and other Forums all over the world, these new wheels will only further the spread of this amazing vehicle. I can’t wait to see more shots of Bill’s car (hopefully some action shots at an upcoming track event!).

Full Bride Interior

Below you’ll see the “short” list of modifications Bill has done to his car…ahaha “short”. 

Mod List:

Wheels/Tires/Alignment:

Volk TE37 18×9.5 +22 in Titanium Gunmetal
Nitto Invo 255/35/18
Volk Formula Floating Lugnuts
-3.0 Front Camber
-3.1 Rear Camber

Interior:

JDM Red Hazard Button
Bride Stradias in Hyper Red Gradation (2)
Black Suede Doorcards
Black Suede 02/03 Headliner
Black STi Limited Carpet
Works Bell Short Hub
Works Bell Red Quick Release 2.0
Works Bell Original Steering Wheel
Powdercoated STI Shifter Trim by LPC
JDM STi Type RA-R Shift Knob
ATI Gauge Pod
Defi Imperial BF Amber Boost Gauge
Defi Imperial BF Amber EGT Gauge
Defi Imperial BF Amber Oil Pressure Gauge
AEM Uego Wideband
Autometer Gauge pod
Painted Dash Trim
Pioneer AVIC-D3

Exterior:

Zero/Sports Front Bumper
Zero/Sports Rear Bumper
Zero/Sports Sideskirts
Zero/Sports Roof Vane
Zero/Sports CF Wing Garnish
TrueChoice Bumper Quick Releases
Autospeed STI License Plate Delete
04-05 Tail Light Swap
JDM Tail Light Mod
HKS Oil Filler Cap
Hella SuperTones powdercoated Super Chrome by LPC
Tein Bonnet Dampers
Red Lined Impreza Badge
JDM STi Radiator Cap x2
Mishimoto Temp Gauge Rad Cap
Perrin Black Radiator Shroud
JDM Subaru Rain Guards
Painted Headlights by Vitale Collision
Custom Red/Black STi Stickers by GraphicSTI
30% Tint by Ryan @ Shades of Gray
Roll Call and All Vinyls by Auditor Clothing

Performance:

ATP GT3076R .82 a/r w/ polished compressor housing and powdercoated turbine housing
TiAL 44mm EWG
TiAL Q BOV
Custom Downpipe by Area1320
Custom Up-pipe by Area1320
Tomei Expreme EL Headers
Reverse Intake Manifold powdercoated Lollipop Kandy Red over Black Frost by LPC
Grimmspeed 8mm Phenolic Spacers
TGV Deletes powdercoated Super Chrome by LPC
Custom Coolant Resevoir by Area1320
Dual Air/Oil Seperators
P&L Braided SS Power Steering line
P&L Braided SS AVCS lines
Agency Power Top Feed Fuel Rails
820cc Top Feed Injectors
Customer IC Piping by Area1320
NGK 1-Step-Colder Spark Plugs
Valve Covers powdercoated Lollipop Kandy Red over Black Frost by LPC
Honda Civic 51R Battery
Custom Cat-Back Exhaust powdercoated Lollipop Kandy Red by LPC
Customer Short Ram Intake
Perrin Signature Series FMIC
KartBoy Short Shifter
KartBoy Shifter Bushings

Suspension/Brakes:

Stance GR+ Pro Coilovers
Front and Rear Camber Plates
TIC Fender Braces
Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings
Perrin 25mm Adjustable Rear Sway Bar
Perrin Front Endlinks
Perrin Rear Endlinks
HKS Kansai Strut Tower Brace
DBA 4000XS Front Rotors
DBA 4000XS Rear Rotors
Powdercoated Stock Brembos
Hawk HPS Brake Pads
Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Special thanks as always to:
Chaz Boyd photography
12Volt Perfection
Liquid Powder Coats
Area1320
Shades of Gray Tint
Turbo Tek Tuning
Auditor Clothing
Stance-USA
CVR Motorsports
Vitale Collision
EDO Performance
R/T Tuning
Mishimoto

The great minds at Yokohama have decided to add a new wheel to their already popular line up which is properly named Advan Racing.

I can’t wait to see these wheels on some cars stateside. Some 19×9.5 +45mm RS-D’s would look spectacular on an 08 STi for a mild street setup or some 18×10 +35mm’s slapped on a GD for the aggressive side.

JUN STI Advan RS-D

The New Advan RS-D is a 10 spoke similar to the RS with a small twist. These new wheels have a lip and a slightly different spoke shape. The spoke spacing is obviously derived from the RS instead of the RZ. The size options match the other Advan Racing wheels we’ve seen in previous years (for the most part).

Advan RS-D Black

The RS-D does come in 20″ sizing which hasn’t been seen in an Advan Racing wheel up until now, most likely to appeal to the new GT-R owners who still want to keep massive 20″ wheels.

Advan RS-D

Either way, here’s a nice fat list of the available sizes/offsets.

4×100

18×7.5 +42mm

5×100

18×8 +47mm

5×114.3

18×7.5 +48mm
18×8 +45mm, +37mm
18×8.5 +51mm, +31mm
18×9 +45mm, +35mm, +25mm
18×10 +35mm, +25mm
19×8.5 +45mm, +38mm
19×9 +35mm, +25mm
19×9.5 +45mm
19×10 +35mm, +25mm, +15mm
20×8.5 +38mm
20×9 +25mm
20×9.5 +40mm
20×10 +35mm ,+25mm
20×10.5 +20mm

This is looking like a good year for some new wheels. 

-T3h_Clap

This new Prodrive wheel looks great, pretty standard design seen from different manufactures with a little Prodrive twist. The sizing is great too. The GR STi has another 18×9.5 with the proper offset! The GD STi (5×114.3 anyway) has some great options too.

Prodrive GC-05K

Who will be first?

Sizes available are as follows.

5×100
17×8 +45mm (Face 1)
18×8 +45mm (Face 1)
19×8 +50mm (Face 1)

5×114.3
17×8 +45mm (Face 1)
17×8.5 +34mm, +40mm, +44mm, +54mm (Face 1)
17×9.5 +34mm, +40mm, +44mm (Face 1)
18×8 +45mm (Face 1)
18×8.5 +34mm, +40mm, +50mm (Face 1)
18×8.5 +24mm, +30mm (Face 2)
18×9 +20mm (Face 2)
18×9.5 +15mm, +24mm, +30mm, +34mm, +40mm, +44mm (Face 2)
19×8 +40mm, +50mm (Face 1)
19×8.5 +25mm (Face 2)
19×8.5 +35mm, +45mm (Face 1)
19×9.5 +15mm, +25mm, +35mm, +40mm (Face 2)

Caliper clearance isn’t finalized yet but the 18×9.5 +44mm looks promising.

Additional Color

Black GC-05K's

The Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution has been around just as long as the Subaru Impreza WRX. They’ve been battling back and forth for just as long. The latest iteration of the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution is the EVO X. The Mitsubishi EVO X is an evolution from its older siblings in nearly every way. The EVO featured here is a perfect example of the new Mitsubishi EVO X. Archie’s car is no slouch and has had 3 sets of wheels already (not including the stockers).

EVO X 19x10.5 CE28Ns

Archie hasn’t done things slowly in terms of modifying. He had some killer 18×9.5 TE37s on his car shortly after buying it. Then he decided to run some very slick 19×9.5 AME TM02′s.

Finding a Mitsubishi EVO X running 19×10.5 CE28Ns is damn near impossible. I happen to stumble on this car while doing a feature of his friend Luis and his 08 Subaru Impreza WRX STi. Archie has chosen to build his Mitsubishi EVO X for Track use. I look forward to seeing some results from Archie once he hits the track.

Well Modified EVO X with CE28Ns

Archie has been in the Mitsubishi Lancer EVO world for awhile now, this being his second EVO. The first Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution Archie had was a 2003 EVO VIII. The EVO X is a perfect example of the word Evolution.

19x10.5 +22mm Volk Racing CE28N EVO X

The EVO X you see here has one hell of a mod list. The brands of choice trickle their way down the JDM alphabet from the likes of Bride, Defi, HKS, JUN, Ralliart, Varis, and Volk. Archie hasn’t focused on only JDM parts, the Ultimate Racing exhaust and AEM alcohol injection are two of the key components netting his strong power numbers. Archie’s Mitsubishi EVO X hit 358whp and 366wtq on pump 91 and 100% Meth with 26.5 psi of boost.

EVO X 19x10.5 +22mm CE28N Volk Racing Wheels

To re-cap; No slouch in Performance, No slouch in Wheel/Tire Fitment and No slouch at the track. This EVO X is no slouch at all. I can’t wait to see what else Archie has in store.

Exterior
JUN Lip
Voltex 1500mm Carbon Fiber GT Wing
Ralliart Carbon Fiber Center Grille Cover
Ralliart Dual Exhaust Shields
JUN Carbon Fiber Mirrors
OEM Carbon Fiber Hood Scoop
HKS Carbon Fiber Side Spats
OEM Sides and Rear Aero Kit Package
Ralliart Tail Lights
Varis Carbon Fiber Dual Cannards
Varis Carbon Fiber Side Vents
Ralliart Carbon Fiber Pillars

Wheels / Tires / Suspension
Volk CE28N Formula Limited Silver in 19X10.5 +22 Offset
Falken Tires 452 275/35/19
BC Racing Coilovers

Interior
Bride Stradia Sport Seats
Defi BF Boost Gauge
Defi BF Controller
Ralliart Scuff Plates
Ralliart Carbon Fiber AC Surround Panel

Engine / Power Mods
5 Zigen Dual Cat Back Exhaust
Ultimate Racing Test Pipe with Mini Muffler
Ultimate Racing Downpipe
AEM Alcohol Injection / 100% Meth on Pump 91
Turbo Trix Upper and Lower Intercooler Pipings
Turbo Trix Intake Piping with HKS Super Megaflow Filter
AGP Intercooler
Forge BOV
Tuned on ECUTEK

Archie has had a few different wheels on his EVO X. All three listed here look great on the EVO X, none of which are the same color or design truly showing off the EVO X’s great lines and aggressive stance. Going into the wheels in a little more detail is needed. (Really just and excuse to post more photos).

19x10.5 +22mm CE28N Volk Racing

The 19×10.5 CE28Ns weren’t exactly a simple bolt on fitment. Archie had to roll the rear fenders and remove the front fender liners to make these wheels and 275/35/19 tires fit. Another requirement of getting the wheels to fit was the addition of some camber in the front, currently Archie is running -2.5 front camber.

Mitsubishi EVO X Volk Racing TE37 18x9.5 +22mm

Archie first had the 18×9.5 +22mm Volk Racing TE37s wrapped with 275/35/18 Toyo T1Rs, the 18×9.5 +22mm TE37 has that highly desirable concave face that is becoming ever so popular. The concave face doesn’t happen on 18×9.5 TE37s until the +22mm offset, the popularity of this wheel and the ease of fitment lead Archie and his EVO X to a new set of wheels quicker than he expected.

EVO X AME TM02 19x9.5 +22mm

Enter the 19×9.5 +22mm AME TM02′s wrapped in 265/35/19 Toyo T1Rs, as you see here these wheels weren’t on the car forever and now he’s stepped up to 19×10.5″ wheels.

Archie wants to thank wife Marigil for supporting him throughout his mod addiction.

There isn’t much more to say but enjoy the excellent photos taken by Luis. More of Luis’s photos can be seen here (2008 STi 18×9.5 +40mm SSR Type-Fs) and here (http://luisbicol.smugmug.com/cars).

As always any questions or comments don’t hesitate to email or comment. In the coming weeks there will be more articles focusing on the EVO models, any recommendations of features or ideas feel free to Email me. On to the pics from Luis!

Archie's 19x9.5 AME's

More 19x9.5 AME's

Volk Racing TE37 +22mm

18x9.5 +22mm TE37s Concave Face

Looking at running a 17×9 on your Subaru Impreza WRX STi?

Here’s a short list of some of the available 17×9 wheels for the Subaru Impreza WRX STi (05+) that clear the brembo brake calipers.

These models listed below may require modifcations to fit a given suspension setup. The modifications required to make these fit will be addressed later. Although the 9.5″ article seen here (http://t3hclap.com/archives/11) and the Fender Mod article seen here (http://t3hclap.com/archives/49) are must reads for all people hoping to run 9″ wheels.

In short the lower the offset the more fender mods and the more spring rate and the more camber you’ll need (or a combination of those three) to fit.

For a proper fitment you’re looking at a nice tire (preferably 245 or wider) and a performance oriented amount of camber to make it all work (-1.5 to -3.0 front and -1.5 to -2.0 rear).

The wider the tire you choose the more fender work/camber you’ll need. I’ll go into more detail on that later.

Here’s the short list so far. Any other models you’d like added don’t hesitate to comment or shoot me an email.

17×9 +40mm Volk Racing CE28N
17×9 +40mm Volk Racing RE30
17×9 +40mm Volk Racing TE37
17×9 +45mm Advan RG2
17×9 +45mm Advan RS
17×9 +45mm Advan RZ
17×9 +38mm gramLight 57Maximum
17×9 +45mm Kosei K1 TS
17×9 +45mm 57Motorsport G07WT
17×9 +43mm 5zigen FN01R-C
17×9 +42mm WedsSport TC005 (15.8 lbs)

Contributors to the above list so far; bdi, me

It’s official Rays has released some new wheels. Some sexy ass wheels. Some 19×9.5′s that will be perfect for the new 2008 and 2009 GRB STi. Onto the pics and sizing!

Volk Racing

VR.G2 

New Volk Racing G2

VR.G7

New Volk Racing G7!

VR.G10

New Volk Racing G10!

All three of the wheels come in some great sizes. Although some will say they are too big.

19′s are going to be come standard here in the coming years with most cars coming factory with 18″ wheels, stepping up 1″ is standard operating procedure for a street wheel.

I’m looking forward to seeing some GRB Sti’s running the 19×9.5s. The G10 is going to look spectacular on a GRB. So, Who’s first?

Sizing as Follows for Subaru Impreza WRX STi Brembo Clearance

VR.G2

19×8.5 +43mm S1 5×114.3 

19×9.5 +42mm S1 5×114.3

VR.G7

18×8 +50mm 5×100

18×8 +50mm 5×114.3

18×8 +40mm 5×114.3

VR.G10

19×8.5 +43mm S1 5×114.3

19×9.5 +44mm S2 5×114.3

As always don’t hesitate to comment or email any questions.

The 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STi had just hit the states, everyone was waiting to see what the car had in store. Some people were going with normal fitments, and some people were taking it one step further. When I saw what Luis had done with his STi I almost fell off my chair. Not only is he running the new SSR Type-Fs but he’s running the 9.5″ version! Luis bought the 08 STi to be a fun Daily Driver/”family” car/Canyon Carver, from the looks of it he hit the nail on the head.

This car is definetly done proper. The 18×9.5 +40mm Gold SSR Type Fs compliment the Aspen White 08 STi perfectly.  The fitment is spot on with a little room to grow tire wise if Luis decides to fully roll the rear fenders. His suspension setup looks like the standard 08 roll call with BC Racing Coilovers (FYI all other USDM 08s featured on the blog run BC Racing coilovers), Whiteline bars and a solid street oriented alignment that still enhances performance.

Luis comes off as a normal guy when I talked to him, but I don’t buy it. Anyone who buys an STi as a “Family” car either has the persuasion skills of a Jedi or a Wife that deserves a medal of awesomeness. Luis made a promise to his wife that he was not going to modify the 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STI since it’s already “fast”.  (FYI it didn’t come off the Assembly line with SSRs or Coilovers….haha).

Luis has some crazy camera skills to boot, that and his STI can be seen with its arch enemy the EVO X. The EVO X with it’s HUGE TE37s is no slouch either. The EVO X is in a few shots in this article but more photos of both the STI and the EVO can be found at Luis’s Smugmug Page here. Luis Smugmug Page. Keep your eyes on the blog for a potentional feature on that very EVO X.

Luis used to drive a torqueless go-kart of a car (Civic Si) the 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STI is far from that with its 2.5 liter motor. Luis says he’s content with the car the way it is now, but we all say that, hell half of us mean it. Just because we mean it doesn’t mean things are going to play out as planned. Plus looking at Luis’s history of “not modifying” I have a feeling there is more in store for this Subaru Impreza WRX STI. I would keep my eyes on this 08 Subaru if I were you.

On to the mod list. 

Mod List:
Wheels/Tires/Suspension:
- 18 x 9.5 SSR Type F
- 265/35/18 Falken RT-615
- BC Racing coilovers
- Whiteline Rear camber adjustment bushings
- Whiteline 22mm adjustable Front and Rear swaybars
- rear fenders were rolled a bit (not flat, probably it was rolled about 55 degrees) – citytireonline.
- alignment settings: zero toe all around, -2* front camber; -1.6* rear camber – stokes

Performance:
- Cobb AP
- Tanabe CBE
- Injen CAI
- Invidia catted DP
- Stage 2 protune @ HBSpeed
- Crawford Air/Oil Separator

Exterior:
- RA UR mudflaps
- CF replica – chargespeed bottomline kit
- CF replica of the OEM exhaust garnish
- red taillight overlay with cutouts
- 20% tint
- OEM foglights, Venture Shield clear bra, Hella supertones, painted ST logo – intercooler, LED rear license plate bulb

Interior:
-OEM ipod interface, adjustable armrest, all weather floor mats, auto-dim rear view mirror with homelink
-CF shiftknob

Luis didn’t do this build alone, I’ll let him do the thank yous. 

I’d like to thank
My Wife: for letting me buy mods for this very expensive hobby
Young: for hooking me up with parts
Import Image Online
Turn-In Concepts
Tanabe USA: For the CBE
City Tire Online: Bryan and John for giving me a good deal on my wheel/tire combo/fender roll
HCP buddies: For helping me install all my mods
Jeff @ Stokes Tire Pros in Santa Monica: for my perfect alignment
NASIOC.COM/IWSTI.COM: for all the subie info!  
I almost forgot!  I’d like to thank myself for being a badass amateur photographer haha just kidding

As always any questions, comments feel free to post or email.

P.S. This car is amazing.

Shop for SSR wheels at Tire Rack.

Recently Rays decided to address the growing market of hybrids and Eco friendly automotive junkies.

The Eco Project released a few wheels designed specifically for increasing in fuel economy (doesn’t hurt the looks any either).

The wheels are CE28 ECO drive.

They come in a 15×6 +35mm, 16×6 +35mm, 16×6.5 +35mm. Specifically for the Toyota Prius and Honda Civic Hybrid.

Who’s going to grab a set?

-t3h_clap

This will be a short article as there is only one 57Motorsport wheel that will clear the STi Brembos. The 57Motorsport G07WT

Here is a list of 57Motorsport Wheels that Clear Subaru Impreza WRX STi Brembos. This includes all GD brembos and GR Brembos. Specific model years this article applies to are 2002-2009 Subaru Impreza WRX and Subaru Impreza WRX STi models with Brembo Brake Calipers.

This is one of the few reasonably priced, lightweight 17x9s that come in 5×100!

All of the sizes below can and will work on a Subaru Impreza. The Bold and *’d sizes will fit without modification with the correct tire size.

5×114.3
17×8 +45mm*
17×9 +45mm
18×8 +43mm*
18×8 +50mm*
18×8.5 +43mm*
18×8.5 +50mm*
18×9 +43mm
18×9 +50mm

5×100
17×8 +45mm*
17×9 +45mm

The 17×9 versions can fit with the correct suspension and alignment settings. There is a 9″ wheel guide article in the works.

As always any questions feel free to comment, email or PM.

-t3h_Clap

For the last 3.5 years people have been curious if the 9.5″ RPF1s cleared the Subaru Impreza WRX STi brembos. Well, they don’t. They require a spacer, how large of a spacer?

Up until last week I couldn’t say with confidence what size they needed to clear. Luckily for me a fellow Subaru owner on the forums with a crazy Wide Body STi happens to have a few Enkei connections. Earl managed to test fit one of the 17×9.5 +38mm RPF1s for Brembo Clearance.

He had a couple spacers laying around so he decided to test it and snap a few pictures to finally put the question to rest, “How big of a spacer do I need to run 17×9.5 +38mm RPF1s?!”

Once Earl got the wheels back to his house he tracked down the spacers and jacked up the car.

Now through the grapevine I’ve heard that these wheels could require a spacer as big as 15mm, I found that hard to believe. Luckily all that is needed to clear the Brembos is a 5mm spacer.

As you can see here the clearance isn’t massive but it should be plenty.

To Recap, 17×9.5 +38mm RPF1 require a 5mm spacer to clear the Brembo Brake Calipers on a Subaru Impreza WRX STi.

The 18×9.5 +38mm has NOT been tested and may require a larger spacer due to the different diameter/spoke design, I’m going to see if we can get that size confirmed as well.

A 5mm spacer on a Subaru will require longer wheel studs to allow full engagement of the lug nuts. There will be future articles on Longer Wheel Stud Options and the Negatives/Positives of running a spacer.

I want to thank Earl for testing these out and ending the rumors/misinformation floating around the Internets. We now have solid proof of what is required for 17×9.5 +38mm RPF1s to clear the Brembo Brakes on a Subaru Impreza WRX STi, Thanks Earl.

As always feel free to Comment, Email or PM with any questions.

-t3h_Clap

Ben is well known throughout the Subaru community for many reasons. The first is probably the fact that he had an Awesome GD Subaru Impreza WRX STi that he was not afraid to take to the track. He sold that wonderful track ready STi and took a detour from Subaru, but like every smart person he came back.

This time around he’s not aiming for a track monster but a Daily Driven 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STI with a few choice improvements. The improvements to Ben’s 2008 Subaru include some 18×9 +50mm SSR Type-F wheels in Silver paired up with some ultra grippy 245/40/18 Dunlop Z1 Star Specs. This combination alone transforms the look and performance of the 2008 Chassis simply from lightening up the rotational un-sprung weight and tossing out those crappy stock tires. Ben didn’t hestitate to go stage 2 with his AP and Turbo Back. He chose to go with the new MXP full 3″ turbo back (Video here).

Without further delay here are some more pics of Ben’s Killer Setup.

Ben’s setup was chosen for a few reasons. He wasn’t looking for the ultra flush look, or searching for the widest tire fitment on the block. Ben wanted a setup that he wouldn’t need to modify the fenders and could run a higher quality stock sized tire. The setup he chose is perfect for his needs. An 18×9 +50mm SSR Type-F is a great sized wheel for a 100% stock body GR chassis STI. There are no mods needed to run this wheel with the stock sized tire. This size is the same as a GD running an 18×8.5 +52mm in terms of ease of fitment, although I have to admit this 18×9 +50mm looks a lot better! Rumor has it there maybe some Coilovers on their way to Ben…but you didn’t hear it from me.

There is only one Person who knows where this car’s mod path leads and it sure isn’t me. Ben’s mod selection has always been top notch and I look forward to seeing more of this Red 08 circulating itself around the Forums.

You want 18×9 +50mm wheels to fit your GR 2008 or 2009 Subaru Impreza WRX STI like this?

Here is a step by step.

1.) Buy some 18×9 +50mm wheels that clear the Brembo brakes (be sure to get some quality lugs too).

2.) Buy some sticky stock sized tires (245/40/18)

3.) Get them mounted and balanced at a trusted tire shop

4.) Bolt on and Enjoy. Don’t have to go crazy to still look amazing.

The Sticky (Wheels & Tires):

18×9 +50mm SSR Type-F in Silver.

245/40/18 Dunlop Z1 Star Spec.

The Skinny (Weight Reduction):

Braille Light weight battery w/ Limited Edition STi brackets.

The Speed (Performance):

Stage 2 Tune.

MXP Full 3″ Turbo Back.

The Future (The Obvious):BC Coilovers with nice stiff rates.

^^ Always a classic glamor shot for wheels, the SSR Type-Fs in 18×9 +50mm with the FF Disk.

^^The hot new MXP full 3″ Turbo Back exits the car with two pairs of these.

^^Here is a great picture showing the front wheel placement of the 18×9 +50mm SSR Type-F’s on a 2008 GR Chassis Subaru Impreza WRX STi on the stock suspension.

Here is a brief list of tire sizes that will be close to factory size for the GD Subaru Impreza WRX and Subaru Impreza WRX STi.

Here are the applicable sizes. Each of these will work on a stock body WRX with the correct wheel/offset/suspension/alignment setup. May need fender rolling or other fender mods to fit without rubbing. 05-07 GD STi Fender mod.

225/45/17
235/45/17
245/40/17
255/40/17

225/40/18
235/40/18
245/35/18
255/35/18

Each of these sizes will work with the right setup. As always any questions don’t hesitate to Comment or Email.

Ever wanted to see 18x10s on a stock body Subaru Impreza WRX STi?

I have.

18×10 RPF1s are freaking amazing. The guys over at TopSpeed managed to wedge a set of them along with some 285 tires under the fenders of their red 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STi.

TopSpeed has a few cars with 18×10 RPF1s. It was only a matter of time before they swapped a set from their crazy Flared TimeAttack GC for a test fit. Now it looks like they bought their new 08 its own pair of 18×10 RPF1s.

This setup with -3.0 front and -1.8 rear camber with stiff 8k/10k coilovers isn’t for the average street driver, but damn does it look amazing. Can’t wait to see this car at this years One Lap of America.

The wheels/tires are 18×10 +38mm RPF1s with 285/30/18 Advan AD07s.

With a good fender roll and some stiff coilovers the new GR chassis Subaru Impreza STi is able to squeeze some nice rubber.

Hopefully we’ll be able to get a more detailed article on both of the TopSpeed cars in the future.

Damn those wheels look awesome.

Having an STi sometimes is not enough. Hitting the track for a High Performance Driving Event in your new STi sometimes is not enough. Sometimes it requires building an STi as a Track Car. This is a dream only few get to achieve, that and being the pilot of the car yourself is even more rare. Seeing this car grow over the past few years has been a blessing, I can’t wait to see what it does next.

Jaime came to me a while back asking for some wheel/tire advice for his 05 Subaru Impreza WRX STi. It didn’t take long to realize Jaime was serious about wanting to run a proper wheel/tire setup for his Track setup. Jaime’s Subaru was no slouch when he came to me, but once we decided on a set of Strong, Lightweight, and Affordable wheels in the correct size he had a monster on his hands.

Jaime decided to go with a 17×9.5 wheel with a +44mm offset. The new Enkei NT03+M’s were going to be shroud with a set of newly released Toyos. The new Toyo R888 has had some very good success in the Time Attack circles, Jaime chose to go with a 255/40/17. These new R888s look amazing on the Enkei NT03+M’s. In conjunction with the entire Cusco suspension line-up Jaime’s 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi is a forced to be reckoned with.

This animal isn’t all suspension. This 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi also has a killer aero package. With a Cusco Front lip matched with a Race Proven Cusco Undertray and a Cusco rear GT Spoiler this Subaru truly exhibits Function > Form. Jaime didn’t want to get left behind on the straight aways so he chose wisely and picked up a ATP GT3071 turbo with all of the proper supporting mods to make the new R888s work their hearts out on corner exit. Developing a car that not only performs in the suspension department but also the Power and Aero is something that isn’t normally seen from a privateer such as Jaime.

Jaime’s car isn’t his only pride and joy, him and his wife recently had their first child. Jaime’s dedication to both family and racing is an inspiration for many. He gives us all hope that we can have our cake and eat it to. The competition on the west coast better keep their eyes on their rear view for the bright Green Yimi Sports logo coming up fast.

Wheels and Tires
17×9.5 +44 Enkei NT03+M wheels
Toyo Proxes R888 255/40/17 tires

Suspension mods:
Cusco Zero2e w/ eCon
Stiffer spring rates (10K/8K range)
Cusco sway bars
Cusco trailing arms
Cusco adj. lateral links
Cusco titanium front strut bar
Cusco rear strut bar w/ V-brace
Cusco motor and trans. mounts
Cusco rear adj. camber plates
Cusco front camber plate modification
KartBoy rear endlinks
TiC Giuyngmyo Fender Cowl Braces
Whiteline ALK
Whiteline steering rack bushings
Whiteline ball joint extenders
Whiteline subframe lockout bolts
Corner balanced and aligned by Darin @ WestEnd Alignment in Gardena, CA

Special Thanks from Jaime:

Angel and Joe @ EastSide Muffler in Palmdale, CA
Paul Yim @ YimiSport Tuning in Santa Clarita, CA
Tim Bailey @ SurgeLine Tuning
Meng @ Nukabe (Cusco)
Myles and Dan @ Race Comp. Eng.
SCV Fri. Night Crew
Last but not least, T3h Clap!!!

Rays Wheels Brembo Clearance can be hard to figure out.

Here is a detailed listed that should clear up some of the confusion.

As we all know the Brembos can be a bit challenging finding a wheel that fits without spacers or other modifications.

Here is a list of Volk Racing Wheels that Clear Subaru Impreza WRX STi Brembos. This includes all GD brembos and GR Brembos. Specific model years this article applies to are 2002-2009 Subaru Impreza WRX and Subaru Impreza WRX STi models with Brembo Brake Calipers.

The sizes listed don’t all “just fit”, some may require extensive work or even a Widebody. Any specific fitment questions feel free to shoot me a message. Contact Info

Bolt on fitments are are highlighted in bold and have an * after them.

Rays Engineering Volk Racing Wheels

Forged One Piece Wheels

To make things easier, I’ll separate by bolt pattern.

First up are the 5×114.3. The 5×114.3 bolt pattern applies to all 05-09 Subaru Impreza WRX STi GD and GR chassis cars.

5×114.3

CE28N

17×7.5 +33mm
17×8 +33mm, +38mm, +44mm*
17×8.5 +25mm, +30mm, +40mm*, +50mm*
17×9 +15mm, +22mm, +23mm, +35mm, +40mm
17×9.5 +15mm, +22mm, +28mm, +40mm, +47mm
17×10 +15mm
18×7.5 +33mm
18×8 +33mm, +38mm
18×8.5 +25mm, +30mm, +40mm*, +52mm*
18×9 +35mm, +40mm, +50mm
18×9.5 +15mm, +22mm, +28mm, +34mm, +40mm, +47mm
18×10.5 +18mm
19×8 +43mm
19×8.5 +22mm, +29mm, +35mm, +43mm*
19×9.5 +12mm, +22mm
19×10.5 +12mm, +22mm

CE28NF

17×8 +33mm, +38mm, +47mm
17×8.5 +53mm*
18×7.5 +25mm
18×8 +33mm, +38mm

RE30

17×8.5 +50mm* (S1)
17×8.5 +25mm, +30mm, +40mm* (S2)
17×9 +35mm, +40mm (S2)
17×9.5 +40mm (S3)
17×9.5 +28mm (L1)
17×10 +15mm (L2)
18×8 +33mm, +38mm, +44mm* (S1)
18×8.5 +52mm* (S1)
18×8.5 +25mm, +30mm, +40mm*, +44mm* (S2)
18×9 +35mm, +40mm, +50mm
18×9.5 +40mm, +47mm (S2)
18×9.5 +28mm, +35mm (L1)
18×10.5 +18mm, +25mm (L2)
19×8 +30mm, +40mm*, +44mm* (S1)
19×9 +25mm, +40mm (S2)
19×10 +30mm (L1)
19×11 +25mm (L2)

TE37

17×8 +33mm, +38mm
17×8.5 +30mm, +40mm*
17×9 +0mm, +15mm, +22mm, +28mm, +40mm
17×9.5 +12mm, +28mm, +35mm, +40mm
17×10 +18mm
18×7.5 +30mm
18×8.5 +22mm, +30mm, +40mm*
18×9 +40mm
18×9.5 +12mm, +22mm, +35mm, +40mm
18×10.5 +15mm, +22mm
19×8.5 +22mm, +29mm, +30mm, +35mm, +43mm*
19×9.5 +12mm, +22mm, +35mm, +43mm
19×10.5 +12mm, +22mm

Next up are the 5×100 models. There are significantly fewer 5×100 Volk Racing Forged Monoblock wheels that clear the Subaru Impreza WRX STi Brembo brake calipers.

These wheels will clear the brakes on all 5×100 equipped Subarus including the GC chassis Impreza when equipped with Brembos.

All of the *BOLD models can be made to work on the 2002-2009 Subaru Impreza WRX and Subaru Impreza 2.5 models.

All of the *BOLD models can be made to work on the 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STi.

5×100

CE28N

17×8 +38mm, +44mm*
17×8.5 +40mm*, +44mm*
17×9 +43mm
18×8 +38mm, +44mm*
18×8.5 +44mm*
19×8 +43mm*

CE28NF

17×8 +38mm, +44mm*, +47mm*
18×8 +38mm, +44mm*

RE30

17×8.5 +40mm*, +44mm* (S1)
17×9 +43mm (S2)
18×8 +44mm* (S1)
18×8.5 +44mm* (S2)

TE37

17×8 +38mm, +44mm*

Any companies looking to support the website and advertise on this article feel free to email me.

With the help of a close friend of mine on the opposite side of the United States, we decided it was time to write a simple and detailed how to for this mysterious process.

Here’s the step by step on how to properly modify the rear fenders on a 2005 to 2007 GD Subaru Impreza WRX STi:

- Removed rear fender garnish using Kyoto (KTC) panel removing tools. They’re made of a high grade plastic and designed to do minimal/no damage to surrounding parts. Generally used on interior trim piece removals. Very handy stuff for the garage. Link here http://ultimatetoolco.com/panelpopperkit.aspx This picture was actually taken later once I’d ground out the inner lip, but this is essentially what the rear fender will look like once the garnish piece has been removed.

- Next I used a 4 inch angle grinder with a 50grit disk to remove the inner lip. I have a lot of experience with these, so I wasn’t too worried about doing this myself. You have to be pretty careful with this as it removes a lot of material really fast. It can also dig in, which can rip the grinder out of your hands, or send it shooting into something you don’t want ground up. Use caution, and WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES. I’ve seen these disks come apart. Since the tool spins at about 10,000 RPM’s it will gladly deposit the pieces into your eye. This will absolutely suck, as well as delay your project while you’re at the hospital having chunks of disk or metal shavings removed from your eye. Just put the damn goggles on and thank me later.

- When I ground this down I used a smooth back and forth motion on the inner lip. Moving from front to rear with steady pressure. That way you end up with nice even material removal, and less chance of the tool grabbing. In my case I wanted to remove as much material as possible to gain max clearance. You’ll notice that the rear quarter panel is actually two pieces of sheet metal joined together, an inner and outer panel. Just above the actual lip, you can see a line of spot welds which hold these pieces together, and give the quarter panel it’s strength. I wanted to preserve these so as not to weaken any of the structure. Race cars are stitch welded along seams where panels meet, which provides great additional chassis stiffness. So, any time that you’re removing spot welds in a car, you’re losing little bits of structural rigidity and chassis strength. I’ve seen the spot welds cut out of STi’s before, and there’s nothing wrong with that. But if it were me, I’d either re-weld the panels or use some body panel bonding agent to get the strength back. I’m only running 255’s in my application on an 18×9 +45 wheel, so I didn’t see the need to go that extreme. YMMV.

- Once you have the lip ground off, you’ll see that the 2 panels separate between the spot welded areas and there will be gaps that are open which moisture can enter.

- I spoke with a local auto body supply shop who recommended a product that I could shoot into that gap as well as cover the completed area, and reattach the garnish piece with.

- Use a screwdriver to open the gaps up so that the goo can be shot up into the area between the two panels. Theoretically this will add strength to the area as well. But for sure, it’ll keep moisture from sneaking between the panels and causing a rust problem in the future. Here’s a shot of the panels separated for goo application.

- A pic of the aforementioned goo. This is “Lord Fusor 803EZ” which is a professional urethane sealer/adhesive.

- You’ll likely only find this product at body shop supply stores. Not intended for consumer use, blah blah blah. You just put the stuff into a regular applicator gun like you use for grease or caulking.

- No worries. GLOVES come in very handy with this stuff. Once it’s on something, it’s pretty much on it. I cut the application tip only a little so that I could get the goo to squirt into the gap between the sheet metal panels. Then I used my finger to force as much of the goo in there as possible. After I was sure that I had plenty of adhesive in there, I used a body hammer to tap the gap closed.

- Wax and Grease remover is also extremely handy when working with the Fusor. It will remove the adhesive when it’s wet, right after you’ve applied it. After it drys, good luck getting it off anything. It comes in handy cleaning up tools like the dead blow hammer in the above pic, your hands, etc.. I use PPG Acryli-Clean. It’s not the cheapest wax and grease remover you can buy, but works very well. This can be purchased at an auto body/paint supply shop as well. I probably used 4-5 full rolls of blue garage towels during this process. Messy!

- Once the goo had some time to cure, I went ahead and used the dead blow hammer pictured above to “massage” the fender. The term “Pulled fender” is a little misleading, as usually this is done by hammering the fender out from the inside. However, the term “Hammered fender” doesn’t sound nearly as nice.

Here’s a picture from above after moving the fender lip out a bit with the hammer.

- After hammering the lip out, I applied a skim coat of the Fusor product over the entire inner lip area where the gap was.

Then I prepped for paint…

… and applied some “Zero Rust” black paint to seal the area.

Then it’ll look something like this….

Yup, just blackness.

Now, on the the garnish piece…

- The nice thing about having the garnish piece to cover this is that you don’t have to be a professional body guy to pull this off. With some basic tools, products, patience, and time… you can do this. The above pics are not the final position of the lip, but close. I worked it out a bit more before reattaching the garnish piece.

- OK, so you’ve destroyed the clips on the garnish… what to do? Well, even if you had saved the clips and the “male” attachment points that are on the inside of the garnish piece, it wouldn’t fit right when you put it back on the car. The reason for this is that the garnish is now in a sprung state. It’s shaped to fit your fender opening before you went and messed with it. So follow me here. If you push it flat to the top of the wheel opening, the ends of the garnish will stick out, and vice versa. That’s OK, because the Fusor 803EZ generally rules, as it has nuclear holding strength. Bear in mind that my method will make the garnish fit perfect. But you aren’t going to be taking it off any time soon. The way I figure it is that the only time that would have to be taken off is if someone stuffed me in the quarter panel. So, permanent is just fine for me.

- Before I put the garnish back on, I used the 50 grit sanding disk on the 4 inch angle grinder to remove all the “positive” areas of the inner side of the garnish. Basically, I ground every thing off of it. All the posts that hold the clips, etc. I also removed the lip portion which sits 90 degrees perpendicular to the quarter panel, making for max tire clearance. If your skeered of that big grinder for this delicate work, you can use a mini version of the grinding wheel on a 3M Roloc adapter and put it on a drill. For most people, I’d recommend this. I’ve spent way too much time with a 4 inch grinder, and am very comfortable with it. But you could very easily destroy the garnish piece if you aren’t super precise with the sanding disc.

Here’s a pic of the Roloc adapter with a sanding disk on it. Insert into standard hand drill, for a much more controllable grinder.

For some reason it’s hard to capture with a camera, but here’s the garnish piece with all the “positives” ground off. Ready for adhesive.

Now, apply the Fusor to the garnish piece. As you can see, I was pretty liberal with the product…

Probably forgot to mention that I’m a little OCD….. so, I put some on the quarter panel as well after wiping it down with wax and grease remover.

- OK, remember the whole thing about the piece being in a sprung condition. Now, we need to convince it that it needs to be a different shape. I’m a little anal retentive to go with the OCD part, so off to Lowes for ratcheting clamps.

Clampage….

- You can see in the pic above that I cut up a cotton t-shirt so that I had something soft to sit against the paint instead of just the plastic clamp head. I know I over did this, but the result is excellent.

Clampage installed…

Yeah… try and move now, sucker. Pwn3d!

You’re not going anywhere…

- The next pics are of the wheels and tires on the car with COBB springs on factory struts. That was the previous owners setup. RCE Tarmac 2’s and camber plates front and rear on the way!!!

They’re tucked in more with the RCE’s, but this is with the COBB’s and the car sitting at approx 1.6 deg negative camber in the rears. My being able to adjust camber at the top and mid-bottom of the wheel you can effectively pull the entire assembly in a bit. (subject to inboard clearance). With this setup, I was able to pull in the fronts and rears a bit. I had a tick too much poke in the front for my taste. With the RCE’s in the car it fit’s perfect. I’d have a few pics of that as well, but my camera seems to have gone on holiday without me…. No clue where it is.

But this is just pure goodness.

Oh yeah…

Even the guy from Penguin Garage approves of this setup. If he had opposable thumbs, he’d be giving a thumbs up here…

Let’s just say I’m a little more than pleased with the outcome myself.

As always, any questions don’t hesitate to ask.

wheelhelp@t3hclap.com

I’d like to thank Brad for the great photos, doing the write up and taking the plunge in doing the process.

-t3h_clap

It’s like a rumor. A mystery hidden in myth and nearly impossible to find, like the Lost City of Gold. For the enthusiast community, it is the daily driver that also performs well on-track when necessary, and without a lot of fuss. Well, it is real and it’s been spotted in Motown. And surprise, surprise, it was riding on some very nice gold.

Chris, aka. boondocksaint, has one of the cleanest 2006 Subaru Impreza WRX STi’s in the nation. No need for a fancy body kit or crazy paint job. The only stickers on the car are his alumni sticker and an oil change reminder.

Chris’s car has a very special, very rare set of Prodrive wheels – the only set in this specific size/color in the states. The suspension is one of the most sought after setups in the Subaru community, not only because of its quality parts and design, but because it excels at nearly everything it does. Chris’s thoughtful and planned modification path has yielded a car that not only looks amazing, but also handles and performs with the best of them. Now he just needs to tighten the nut behind the wheel.

I had a chance to bounce a few PM’s back and forth with Chris prior to writing this article and here is what he had to say during the T3h_Clap interrogation.

T3h_Clap: What is the Current Suspension Setup and Settings?
Boony: TiC SST coilovers, Whiteline 24mm adjustable swaybars (front and rear), Kartboy swaybar endlinks (front and rear), Vorshlag camber plates (front and rear), Ingalls camber bolts (front and rear), CarLabs X-Brace
Sway settings: full soft on each for now
Damper settings (from full stiff): F -8, R -10 (for now)
Ride Height: Front 14″, Rear 13.5″
Alignment: Fr -1.5 (more with me in it), Rear -1.5
Toe is DEAD straight.

T3h_Clap: Any future modifications planned?
Boony: I need to do something with brakes and get corner balanced. And, at some point, I should do some power mods.

T3h_Clap: What is your Current Wheel and Tire Setup and Settings?
Boony: Prodrive GC-06H 17″ x 8.5″, +51 offset, ~16lbs each
Falken RT615 in 255/40-17
Tire Pressures: 40psi F, 37psi R
Strut Clearance: a little less than a finger width front and rear between the tire and the lower perch – doesn’t rub, but doesn’t miss by much…

T3h_Clap: What are your planned uses for the car?
Boony: Daily driving, open track days, and the occasional road trip back home to the South.

T3h_Clap: Did you set your car up for anything specific?
Boony: My car was intended to be 95% daily driver and 5% track day toy. I do not autocross at all, nor do I drag race. Road courses only. To that end, I wanted to run slightly wider rubber (I think 255 is as good a compromise between street/track as I can get) and keep some style. I needed the car to be a bit more neutral while still retaining just a bit of understeer for safety and because the car is far more capable than am I. I chose the coilovers for their ability to excel on the street and at the track. Even though stiff springs would increase track performance, the car is primarily daily driven. It is currently more comfortable than stock despite having spring rates 50% stiffer than stock.

T3h_Clap: How are your tire clearances with the TiC Coilovers and the Prodrive wheels?
Boony: Tire-to-strut clearance (actually the lower perch) is only enough to squeeze my finger between them. It’s damn close. Without the camber bolts at full positive, there would be contact. I am considering a 5mm spacer and extended studs for next year, but am still researching my options. It would allow me to run more negative camber.

T3h_Clap: Last but not least a list of sponsors/vendors/people you want to mention/thank.
Boony: Long list, in chronological order:
IWSTI.com, as it is an invaluable resource on these cars without the boy-racer attitude. GarageSpec.com and TurninConcepts.com for their help getting the wheels and suspension hooked up. CarLabs, for such an awesome, effective brace. Penguin Garage and T3h_Clap for help getting everything exactly right, and for the spoiler. AutoEurope in Berkely, MI, for mounting my tires without screwing up my wheels and for balancing them properly, and my super-secret alignment guy. Yes, I was aligned manually with string, a ruler, slip plates, and a spreadsheet. Nandan, my photographer, for the amazing photos. Lastly, all my friends in the community who have helped me learn, modify, and tweak my car – thanks to you all.

Since this Interview, Chris has replaced his RT615s with a fresh set of Bridgestone RE01Rs in the same size (255/40/17). And yes, the clearances are still tight. Chris will be tracking his car over the summer.

More Photos:

Q: Can I run different Size Tires front and rear on my Subaru Impreza WRX STi or Subaru Legacy SpecB.?

A: NO!

Do not run different Tire Sizes Front and Rear or Side to Side on a Street Driven Subaru. All 4 tires must match.

This includes all models of Impreza, Legacy, Forester, Tribeca, Outback, and Outback Sport with AWD.

Why you ask?

1.) Because Subaru Says so

click me

2.) Because your owners manual says so

if you’re not sure, or don’t believe me go read it.

3.) Because saving $200 or even $500 today is not worth the expense or Hassle to fix your center diff.

On a more technical side of things,

You can’t run a different rolling diameter front and rear on a street driven Subaru due to its AWD system. The center diff will try and compensate for the differing speeds between the front and rear tires and proceed to overheat and eventually fail.

This also applies to running different Model tires of the same size. EVERY aspect of your 4 tires should match when installed on a Subaru including;

Width

Profile

Diameter

Load index

Tread pattern

Tread compound

Brand

Model

This is the only time that it makes sense to buy crappy tires for an STi.

Also proper rotation is key to the longevity of both your tires and your differentials, rotate your tires consistently and often (i.e. Oil changes/after autox’s/after track days).

Not a lot of information out there on the new gramLights 57D wheel except that it doesn’t really come in sizes for Subarus.

And Honestly I don’t care, this wheel looks awesome.

Even though the “unofficial” release for these was in January of this year, I figured it was about time to show it off to the Subaru world.

The D stands for “drift”, but I’m more concerned with the fact they cleaned up the lines for the popular 57Maximum and added some crazy new Colors.

The 18×9.5 +38mm that is available and closest to Subaru friendly offsets is not listed as clearing Brembos, but it shouldn’t require too much of a spacer to get it to clear up front.

Guess only time will tell if someone is crazy enough to run some Luminous Orange gramLight 57Ds on a Subaru

-T3h_Clap

Images from Rays Engineering Website

I don’t normally do this, but this New Concept from BMW is a must see.

Imagine being able to make the wheel arches of a car wider simply at a push of a button no worries of paint cracking or having to mold in new body panels.

Simply Amazing

I’m waiting for a setup where I can make the car wider at an event for some large wheels/tires and then bring it back down to standard street setup and still look amazing doing both.

I guess the question is when will this hit the streets and will the smaller less luxury companies be able to make it a feasible option for new vehicles. Subaru for 2015? Where do I sign?

GINA Article

Video of GINA in action

More Details

Photo from http://www.carmagazine.co.uk

Here are a few little graphs I put together for a few different people to compare the different measurements of a few select size tires.

First up is a comparo of a select few 255/35/18 and 265/35/18

all tires listed in this graph are a 35 profile and 18″ diameter

Measuring Width is the wheel width that was used when measuring Tread width and Section width. Both of tread width and section width change with wheel width. More on this in a future article.

Tread is the Tread width of a given tire on a given wheel width, measured from the inside tread to the outside tread. Tread Width is not always published as you can see here where the red sections go down to zero.

Section is the Section Width of a given tire on a given wheel width, measured from the inside to the outside of the tire at the widest portion. The three digit number on the side wall of a tire relates to the tires section width.

as you can see the the difference between a 255 and 265 is noticeable in both section and tread widths.

the measuring wheel width also changes, the measuring wheel width for a 255 is generally 9″, 265 is generally 9.5″.

Mounting a tire on a wheel narrower than the measuring wheel width will result in a narrower section width then the published number.

Mouting a tire on a wheel wider than the measuring wheel width will result in a wider section width then the published number.

2nd up is a graph comparing 255/40/17 tires, all tires below had a measuring wheel width of 9″

As you can see comparing 255 only tires creates a more uniform graph in terms of section width. Tires range from a 10.2 to a 10.4. 10.2″ Section Width belongs to the Toyo T1R and the 10.4″ Section Width is from the new Dunlop Z1 Star Spec and R888.

The tires with the largest tread widths A048, R888 are both R-Compound Track tires.

Unfortunately the new Dunlop Z1 Star Spec does not have their Tread Width numbers publicly published, if anyone has a Dunlop connection that has these numbers I’d love to get my hands on them.

The RT615 and RE01R are the middle ground in terms of size for a Max Performance Street Tire, both measuring 9.4″ tread width
The AD07 from Advan is by far the largest coming in at a staggering 9.9″ tread width.

The R1R is between the RE01R and AD07 with a 9.6″ tread width

Choosing the correct tire for any application is critical, with the tires being the only thing touching the ground it’s key to make the right decision on what tires will maximize the use of your vehicle.

There will be another Article Following next week going into more detail on the Measurements listed here.

Also look out for more Tire comparison and analysis.

As always if there are any specific questions don’t hesitate to shoot me an email or comment.

-t3h_Clap

Building a streetable BSP car isn’t too hard. You just have to make sacrifices. Sacrifices to Driveability, and Ultimate BSP Preparation.

1.) How much blood do I want in my urine? 10k/8k or 14k/12k?

2.) NVH “WHAT? I Can’t hear you”

3.) How am I supposed to fit 17x10s and 275s in my backseat!?

Is it possible to build a BSP car without these sacrifices? yes, but you give up speed and leave time on the course where ever tenth counts.

I figured it was time to do a little article on my own car, T3h_Clap.

Built for BSP Autox Competition and Daily Driven in the wonderful state of Florida.

Honestly, the sacrifices aren’t that bad.

sure the exhaust is loud (APS 3″)

The Coilovers are noisy and stiff as hell (Zeal Function V6s)

But it’s worth it, the amount of Grip this little MY05 Subaru Impreza WRX STi has is amazing.

For a truly competitive BSP Subaru one NEEDS to be running at least 17x10s and 275 tires. These are the minimum. Winning Locally on a set of 8.5″ wheels with 245 tires doesn’t mean you can hang on a National Level. Of course National Level requires a driver who can hang as well, (that’s where I fail haha).

It took awhile to find a Setup that I liked.

1st it was STi Pink springs

2nd it was the Breakfast Blend (STi Pink Front Springs, PDE Front Camber plates, STi Pink Wagon Rear Springs)

3rd it was KW V3s with PDE front camber plates

4th it was the Current Zeal Function V6s with 10k/8k springs and camber plates front and rear.

All four of the setups have their ups and downs.

Pinks were great daily, but were too low and soft for big rubber.

Breakfast Blend was amazing daily, great for big rubber, but lacked the stiffness.

KW V3s amazing on the street, stiff enough for big rubber, great adjustability, but lacked the stiffness I wanted.

Zeals Stiff for sure, great adjustability but lack the ideal amount of Droop Travel.

For wheels I ended up running a set of 17×10 CCW Classics custom made with enough pad height and the Proper Disk to not require spacers to clear brembos.

The Suspension Setup that was needed to make the AutoX only 17×10 CCWs and 275/40/17 V710s to fit was as follows.

Ride height: ~14.25″ front and ~14″ rear (corner balanced so it’s not exactly that).

Camber: -2.9 Front and -1.7 Rear

Camber Plate/Bolt Trick: Rear camber plates full negative, with camber bolts in the rear set to positive to achieve final -1.7 Rear camber number. This “trick” gives added clearance between the rear strut and tire allowing me to run a higher offset then normally possible with 17x10s and 275s.

Body Modifications: to allow 17x10s were simple, just had to “push” the lower corner of the front bumper outward. Due to the 10″ wide wheels the 275/40/17 V710s were now hitting the lower corner of the front bumper when the wheel was turned. 275/40/17 V710s on smaller wheels don’t hit the bumper (although it’s close).

The Car will be under going some Interior and Exterior Changes over the coming year, but the rest of the car “should” stay as is as long as I don’t get Antsy or the Real Owner of the CCWs doesn’t ask for them back (thanks for letting me borrow the Wheels Rich!).

The Rest of the Important Mods on the car are pretty standard for BSP.

APS 3″ Turbo Back

APv1 ProTune by Jarrad of PDX Tuning (93 and VP110 maps) 306whp/331wtq on 110 on the JapTrix Dyno in West Palm Beach.

Whiteline Anti Sway Bars front and rear (24/26 front 20/24 rear)

Ingalls rear camber bolts

ARP Long Wheel Studs

The Street Setup:

Only difference for the street setup is the 93 Octane pump gas map and the wheels.

The wheels of choice are a set of 18×8.5 +45mm gramLight 57Maximums in White (First Set in the States installed 6/1/2006).

The tires of choice are a set of 265/35/18 Hankook RS2s.

As always at T3hClap.com we’re looking for sponsors to help us get out to more events and upgrade the car further. Any donations or sponsors don’t hesitate to shoot me an Email.

Photos:
Slideshow on abbyjons.smugmug.com

Recently I was flipping through the latest Hyper Rev Impreza #6 (thanks John @ GarageSpec), and I found something the community needs to know.

I stumbled upon the release of an 08 STi specific Volk Racing RE30 size.

In case you’re unfamiliar with the Wheel here’s a little photo.

The new Volk Racing RE30 size release for the 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STi takes advantage of both the added inboard clearance of the new GRB chassis and the new wider front and rear fenders.

This new size will be the standard for all 08s, the “basic” fitment if you will.

18×9 +50mm

Doesn’t that just sound wonderful!?

9″ as a “basic” fitment, I remember when it was big news for the Bugeyes to run wider than 7.5!! LOLs.

9″ wheel +50mm offset that will easily fit on the new 2008 STi with ZERO issues?!?!

Makes me want to go get an 08…

For a more aggressive setup, one only needs to go .5″ wider and 3mm lower offset to find another RE30 that clears the Brembos and has very attractive sizing. 18×9.5 +47mm, with the correct fender mods and suspension one could run a 275/35/18 on this setup with only minor hassles.

After scanning through the new Hyper Rev it is evident that there will be much more to come for the GRB Chassis. With the way the US and the Japanese tuners are diving in to tuning the new chassis it is only a matter of time before the guys with the big check books realize what’s possible to squeeze under those new Fender Flares.

Yes, I’m jealous, and Yes I’m looking for some 08s to tinker with.

Any South Florida takers? I’ve got a few wheels that need test fitting

Stay tuned for some more Volk Racing articles.

-t3h_Clap

In stock form the Subaru Impreza WRX STi is no slouch in the suspension department. This doesn’t mean it can’t be better, but how far do you go?

Lowering springs that limit the performance and wheel/tire selection or kidney bruising coilovers?

There is a proper middle ground to setting up an STi that is still competitive at the Autox.

Karlton has found that middle ground, the middle ground also happens to include a few sets of 9.5″ wheels!!

Karlton bought this STi in November of 2005, and after about 500 miles and its first oil change, Karlton took it to its first autocross.

Karlton planned on not modifying this car at all and just running it for fun in A Stock. (We all know how this story pans out)

His first event in the car, Karlton knew it needed a few suspension tweaks. He decided to set the car up for STU since he could keep the car relatively streetable and limit how crazy he could go with the modifications.

After going through a couple different suspension setups Karlton finally found his middle ground.

Karlton qualifies as a Wheel Whore with a nice list of wheels in his arsenal.

Autocross setup:
SSR Competitions
17×9.5 et42 (3mm spacer in the front)
Bridgestone Potenza RE-01r
245/40/17

Street/Rain setup:
Kosei K1-TS
17×9 et45
Kumho Ecsta SPT
245/40/17

Just for fun:
Enkei RP03
17×9.5 et38
Yokohama Advan Neova AD07
245/40/17

As you see here there is a pattern, 245/40/17s. Karlton is forced by the SCCA Street Tire Unlimited (STU) rule set to have tires no wider than 245, wheel width is unlimited. Exploiting the unlimited wheel width ruling, STU competitors mount their 245s on the widest wheel possible to widen the section width and improve steering response.

When it comes to 9.5″ wheels I really like the placement of the +38mm wheels.

The middle ground Karlton has chosen for his Streetable STU STI is as follows.

Suspension Setup:
Ground Control housings with Koni 8611 Double adjustable shocks
Ground Control camber plates front and rear
Eibach springs 530lb front/500 rear
Whiteline 27-29 swaybars front and rear
Camber: -3 front/-1.8 rear
1/16” toe out front and rear
Ride height: about 13.75” front and rear

Thank you Section:
Karlton would like to thank his sponsors: SpeedElement, GST Motorsports, and AutoRnD.

Any Specific setup questions can be emailed to me, any questions about Karlton’s setup feel free to comment or shoot me an email.

Below are some more photos of Karlton’s car Equipped with the 17×9.5 +38mm Enkei RP03 with 245/40/17 Yokohama Advan AD07 Tires.

Yesterday I swung by my local Subaru Dealership to take a look at the new 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STi which they had sitting outside.

First impressions are “Whoa, you grew” and “Yes please”.

The car as a whole appears larger than the earlier years.

As a good wheel whore the first thing I check was the rear Fender lip.

As Suspected there was a good 1″ or so of fender that could be rolled up and out of the way without much hassle.

This is amazing considering people are squeezing 275/35/18s on 9.5″ wheels with only a minor fender roll.

Imagine what can be done with a heavy roll and a slight pull of those fenders.

The Front fenders did not have nearly as much lip as the previous years, although the front is never really an issue due to the amount of negative camber we tend to run.

It’s very tempting to just bite the bullet and jump into an 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STi and not look back, just go out and grab a set of 18×9.5s with a nice high 40 offset, slap on my 265s and be content until a set of coilovers show up.

I’ve needed a car to use my pretty new fender roller on……

Yes there are alot more thing to talk about on the new 2008 Subaru Impreza WRX STi, but honestly who cares, it wont be long before you see 08s rolling around with some T3h_Clap Approved 18x10s

Stay Tuned for more 2008 Impreza WRX STi Fitment Info and Photos as I either convince my girlfriend to let me get one, or I find someone on the street willing enough to let me do some test fitting.

-T3h_:Clap:

The width of the wheel is one of the key factors in selecting a wheel.

Go wider than stock?

Stay the same width?

Go narrower than stock?

These are a few questions that must be asked and answered before selecting a wheel. Not all wheels are available in all sizes.

The width of a wheel is measured from the inside bead to the outside bead.

The wheel width determines backspacing, forward spacing, offset selection and tire sizes.

Offset as said earlier is measured from the center of the wheel to mounting face.

Backspacing is the distance from the mounting face to the back of the wheel.

Forward spacing is the distance from the mounting face to the front of the wheel.

With knowing this only looking at offset when selecting wheels can be a very bad thing. Changing forward spacing and backspacing (by increasing wheel width) while maintaining the same offset can lead to potential rubbing issues.

the width of a wheel also dictates the size of tire that can safely be run.

is it possible to run a 275 series tire on an 8″ wheel? Yes, I ran it for part of the 2006/2007 season Solo2.

Is 275 on an 8″ wheel ideal? No, ultimately grip will be increased compared to a properly sized tire but there will be some side effects such as slower turn in, and “squirmy” sidewalls.

Why run an over sized tire for autox? Rules, in stock class changing wheel width is illegal, but tire width is unlimited. I will go into more detail about autox classing later.

Back to wheel width and tire width, each manufacture has listed the range of wheel widths any given tire can fit on. This is a good starting point for what is “ideal” although they do tend to lean towards a slight stretching of the tire. Some people prefer to have a little extra tire to help protect the wheel and increase grip. This can be accomplished by using a wheel width that is on the narrower side of the listed range.

Wheel width is a large contributor to wheel weight. When increasing wheel width it is a good idea to also upgrade to a better construction wheel either a high quality cast wheel or forged. Upgrading to a better construction usually means the overall weight of the wheels will be less.

Wheel weight will be discussed in further detail in a future article.

Wheel width is only one of the many aspects of selecting a wheel.

The other aspects of Diameter, Offset, Desired Tire Width, Acceptable Camber, Desired Usage, and Current and Future Suspension setups all need to be consider as well. Blindly saying “I want a 9″ wheel” can get you in loads of trouble if you’re not careful and don’t do your research.

Hey guys,Recently there has been a bit of a stir of what Work Emotions will and will not clear the Brembo brakes found standard on the Subaru Impreza WRX STi. As we all know the Brembos can be a bit challenging finding a wheel that fits without spacers or other modifications.

Quickly I want to Thank the guys over at RavSpec Online who were kind enough to Sponsor this article.

Here is a list of Work Emotion Wheels that are known to clear brembos from independent sources and from Work themselves, lets get started.

Work Emotion CR Kai

17×7.0 +32mm

17×8.0 +47mm

17×8.0 +42mm

17×8.0 +32mm

17×9.0 +28mm

17×9.0 +17mm

18×7.5 +35mm

18×8.5 +43mm

18×9.5 +30mm

Work Emotion XD9

18×7.5 +38mm

18×8.0 +45mm

18×8.0 +35mm

18×8.0 +28mm

18×9.0 +43mm

18×9.0 +38mm

18×9.0 +30mm

18×9.0 +20mm

18×10.0 +18mm

Work Emotion XT7

17×7.0 +32mm

17×8.0 +47mm

17×8.0 +42mm

17×8.0 +32mm

17×8.0 +25mm

17×9.0 +38mm

17×9.0 +28mm

17×9.0 +17mm

18×7.5 +35mm

18×8.5 +46mm

18×8.5 +38mm

18×8.5 +32mm

18×8.5 +25mm

18×9.5 +38mm

18×9.5 +30mm

18×9.5 +20mm

18×9.5 +12mm

Work Emotion XC8

17×7.0 +35mm

17×8.0 +50mm

17×8.0 +42mm

17×8.0 +35mm

17×9.0 +38mm

17×9.0 +28mm

17×9.0 +17mm

18×7.5 +35mm

18×8.5 +47mm

18×9.5 +35mm

18×9.5 +20mm

18×9.5 +12mm

19×8.0 +48mm

19×8.0 +35mm

19×9.0 +45mm

19×9.0 +35mm

19×9.0 +25mm

19×10.0 +35mm

19×10.0 +20mm

Don’t hesitate to head over to our Sponsors for your next work wheel purchase, tell them T3h Clap sent ya

These may not be all of the Sizes that clear brembo. All of the above will clear brembos, this does not mean they will work with all Impreza Suspensions, Body Work, Or tire size. Specific Fitment Questions can be sent to drew@t3hclap.com or below in the comments.
Feel Free to leave questions or comments.

After hearing about the latest news from the most recent SCCA FasTracks I immediately sent in my response against the change.

The BSP Mitsubishi EVO VIII’s and IX’s did very well this year at nationals in BSP. Neither of the STI or EVO as a whole have proven that they would be competitive in ASP on a national level.

If the bases of the change was due to the performance of the EVO and STI at nationals the S2000 and C4 Corvettes should also be bumped into the ASP arena.

Below is a link to the 2007 SCCA Solo Championship results, as seen here the EVO and STi did not dominate BSP, there is a strong mixture of vehicles in the top 10 of BSP competition. Don’t change that, keep the competition alive.

Read the new SCCA Solo FasTracks here.

They are asking for emails in agreement of disagreement with this change.

We need everyone to send an Email to seb@scca.com and voice our disagreement with this new class change.

Below is a Sample letter for you to send.

2007 SCCA Solo Championship Results can be downloaded here.

The Sample letter is Short and Sweet.

To: Seb@SCCA.com
I am against the change of moving the BSP STi to ASP. The results of the car do not show this to be required.

Sincerely,
Avid Autoxer

Want to run an aggressive GTR Face setup on your Impreza?

It isn’t impossible, you just need to be willing to do the modifications necessary to make it work.

Perfect example of someone willing to do what it takes is Bill (Aka. IStoSTi, CarbonIS, and a few others I don’t know).

Bill contacted me asking “what would it take for me to run this?”

I informed Bill of what he would have to do. Generally when I reply to questions like these people run away or ask if I’m serious, not Bill. Bill asked for more details. Crazy guy I tell ya.

This setup he was talking about was an 18×9 +29mm Advan RS with the coveted GTR face.

To make this aggressive of a setup work on an Impreza it takes a good amount of work and very aggressive camber settings front and rear.The tire of choice for this setup was a 235/40/18, this allowed Bill to run slightly less camber and have the lower ride height he was searching for.

Even with the 235/40/18 and -2.5 rear camber it is still necessary to do modifications to the rear fenders. Bill decided to modify the rear fenders by trimming the excess fender lip away, this allows the car to maintain stock look and still gain the needed clearance.

Setting up an aggressive wheel and tire car isn’t a simple set ride height, install, align and done. Modifying the setup, for everything to fit properly is a tedious process and can take days if not weeks. If I remember correctly Bill and a local performance shop modified the fenders and did the alignment in two days. Crazy again I tell ya.

Once Bill had everything setup and got some photos taken he had started a revolution of sorts, proving that it is possible to run these kind of Low Offset wheels on stock bodied Subaru Impreza Sedans. This is beyond fitment, this is the way a low offset Subaru is supposed to look.

Bill doesn’t need wheels to do dual duty, he has plans to run a more performance oriented aggressive setup for track use in the future. Normally I’d stray away from this aggressive 18×9 +29mm setup for a car using these wheels for both street and track, due to other options being more ideal for dual duty. Although if you’re crazy enough to do it, do it. My only request is you do it right the first time.

Important Modifications:

Suspension: Tein Flex Coilovers, Rear Camber bolts

Wheels: Advan RS GTR Face 18×9 +29mm 5×114.3

Tires: Falken Azenis RT615 235/40/18

Alignment: -2.6 Front Camber, -2.5 Rear Camber

Ride Height: 12.5″ Front, 12.3″ Rear

Body Modifications: Trimmed rear inner fender lip

Here are some photos of Bill’s setup. Click for higher-res.

Bill asked me to thank a few of his Friends and Supporters for him.

Shades of Gray Tint
EDO Performance
RT Tuning
Area1320
Liquid Powder Coats
201 Motorsports

Photos by: Laura DeBolt

As always if you have specific questions about your setup or want to be featured on T3hclap.com don’t hesitate to shoot me an email.

drew@t3hclap.com

-t3h_:clap:

Want to run wider tires on your 2005+ Impreza WRX STi that is still using Stock wheels and Stock (or stock replacement) Struts?

Using the following setup it is possible to easily run a 245/40/17 or 255/40/17 Tire

1.) Stock 17×8 +53mm wheels (BBS or Enkei)

2.) Stock Struts (or stock replacements, such as Ohlins)

3.) Lowering Springs (90% of lowering springs will work, only the softest and Lowest will cause issue).

4.) Performance alignment (dialing in as much as possible using the stock front camber bolts ~ -1 degrees is normal, using aftermarket Camber Plates or Camber Bolts can be used to gain more camber).

Quality Summer 245 and 255 tires.

Bridgestone RE01R 245/40/17 or 255/40/17

Yokohama Advan AD07 245/40/17 or 255/40/17

Hankook Z212 RS2 245/40/17

Falken Azenis RT615 255/40/17

Dunlop Z1 Star Spec 245/40/17

All five of the tires listed are great tires. When considering if they will work on a you 2005+ STi you need to consider the use. If you’re Autoxing in STU you can’t go wider than 245, so running a 245/40/17 would be the best idea.

Also, if you plan on using the tires on new wheels that are wider and have a lower offset and you don’t plan on changing your suspension, you may want to avoid the 255′s as it can cause rubbing issues even with high offset 8.5″ wheels.

As Usual if you’ve got specific questions on fitment don’t hesitate to shoot me an email.

Street Alignments can be tricky.

No offense to alignment techs, but 90% go for the easy way out when it comes to setting up your alignment. Especially when you’re on an upgraded suspension.

For example,

It’s 1000x easier to adjust camber plates to get equal camber left and right, this is a big no no and will negatively effect the handling of the vehicle.

In short the easiest way to make sure your car gets setup the best way possible you can do the following, or make sure the alignment tech does your alignment as follows.

The process really depends on your setup, but here is a few basics to getting your alignment right, the first time.

Subaru Impreza with Stock or Lowering Springs and Stock or Grp N. Top Hats.

Front

1.) Adjust Camber eccentric bolt (Upper bolt that attaches strut to the spindle) so camber is maximized but equal left to right.

2.) Adjust Toe to be Zero left and right

Rear

1.) Adjust Toe eccentric to be Zero left and right

Subaru Impreza with Stock or Lowering Springs and Stock or Grp N. Top Hats and Aftermarket Camber Bolts Front and Rear.

Front

1.) Install Camber Bolt in lower bolt and make sure it’s aligned for negative camber (tab inward).

2.) While on the alignment rack able to see the adjustments. Adjust both Camber eccentric bolts. First adjust the lower camber bolt to around -1.5, then use the upper camber bolt to fine tune to -1.8 or so. Make sure camber is maximized to where you want it but equal left to right.

3.) Adjust Toe to be Zero left and right

Rear

1.) Install Camber Bolt in upper bolt and make sure it’s aligned for negative camber (tab inward).

2.) While on the alignment rack able to see the adjustments. Adjust new Camber eccentric bolts. Use the upper camber bolt to fine tune to -1.8 or so. Make sure camber is maximized to where you want it but equal left to right.

3.) Adjust Toe to be Zero left and right

Subaru Impreza with Lowering Springs and Front Camber Plates.

Front

1.) Adjust Camber Plates equally negative (inward), good starting point for street use is 1/2 way between the middle (0) hash mark and full negative (inward). (Camber #s according to the alignment rack will not have to match, the plates need to match).

2.) Adjust Camber eccentric bolt until camber left and right matches. Try and achieve maximum negative camber you’re comfortable with. I prefer a -1.7 or so front camber for a street driven Subaru Impreza.

3.) Adjust Toe eccentric to be Zero left and right.

Rear

1.) Adjust toe eccentric to be Zero left and right

Subaru Impreza with Coilovers and Front and Rear Camber Plates.

Car As A Whole
1.) Adjust ride height to where you want it. Good starting point 14.25″ Front and 14″ Rear (measured from center of hub to fender).

2.) Corner Weight the car by adjusting ride height and using scales.

Front
1.) Adjust Camber Plates equally negative (inward), good starting point for street use is 1/2 way between the middle (0) hash mark and full negative (inward). (Camber #s according to the alignment rack will not have to match, the plates need to match).

2.) Adjust Camber eccentric bolt until camber left and right matches. Try and achieve maximum negative camber you’re comfortable with. I prefer a -1.7 or so front camber for a street driven Subaru Impreza.

3.) Adjust Toe eccentric to be Zero left and right.

Rear

*if rear camber plates are non existent, skip step 1

**if rear camber eccentric bolts are non existent, skip step 2

1.) Adjust Camber Plates equally negative (inward).

2.) Adjust Camber eccentric bolt until camber left and right matches. A good baseline is -1.5.

3.) Adjust toe eccentric to be Zero left and right.

If you’ve got a specific setup that you’ve got questions about starting points for ride height and camber don’t hesitate to comment or email.

Ok, so you’ve got some dirty wheels? Not surprising. Today’s brake pads and roads can get you car and wheels filthy in a hurry. Not to worry though. That’s why we’re here. This is the proper way to clean your wheels and keep them clean.

Ew dirty wheels!

First, make sure the wheels are cool to the touch. Wheels get hot just from normal driving and braking. So take a minute, get set up and let them cool. You are going to need a few products to accomplish this task.

First off, some soap, whatever you use to clean your car is great for this. Dish soap is a bad idea. Now get yourself a bucket and get the soap all sudsy and get a good amount of water in the bucket. I also use a grit remover in the bottom of my bucket. You’ll also need something to clean the stubborn spots of caked on brake dust. I use a fairly aggressive rubbing compound. I’ve found it works great when used properly. Next, you’re going to need to protect your wheels. There are several products on the market for this. They all have something like “wheel protection” or something to that affect on the jar/bottle. If you are questioning a certain product, don’t hesistate to contact me or your local professional detailer for a bit of help on what to use. Finally, you’ll need some microfiber cloths to work with, any brand should work.

Here’s a picture of the stuff i used:

Now, you’re set up, the wheels are cool, and you’re ready to start cleaning. Take a hose and spray off the loose debris. You will see some brake dust and other contaminants running off the wheel. Next, take a microfiber cloth (MF) and dunk it in the bucket of soapy water. Squeeze that so that the soapy water runs al over the wheel. Let it dwell for a second and then with that MF, start wiping down the wheel. Make sure you get every little nook and cranny.

Now, once you’ve done the initial cleaning, the wheels should definitely start looking better.

Still not quite up to par though, so onward we go.

You’ve noticed some specks/spots of black stuff on the wheel. Something like this:

This is road grime and brake dust that has physically adhered to the wheel and can’t be removed with typical cleaning. Its time to break out your rubbing compound. Apply a small amount to one of your MF’s and start working it into the wheel. It make take a bit of elbow grease and patience here so don’t worry if it doesn’t look perfect right away. When you are done with that it should look something like this.

The rubbing compound wont take off physical defects such as chips and pits so you may still have some of those. Similar to the wheel pictured above.

Here is a before and after:

before:

after:

Now that you’ve got your wheels free of most, if not all, of the contaminants. It’s time to protect them. Bust out your wax/sealant and your applicator pad and apply a thin even coat to the entire surface of the wheel.

Again, get all the nooks and crannies. This stuff tends to get into the cracks if you aren’t careful so don’t be afraid to grab a toothpick or something to get it out. Once you’ve got the wheel coated, let it dry/haze/cure for a bit (usually about 5-10 minutes).

Now, once it has hazed over, you can start buffing. Grab a MF and start buffing the wax/sealant off. Be sure to get it all off the wheel. Once it is all off, you can kick back and enjoy your work or apply multiple coats. The next time you go to clean your wheels it should be much easier to get all the grime off.

You will need to reapply the wax/sealant every few months or so. Hopefully this has helped you out! Remember, if you have any questions do not hesitate to contact me, or glimmerglassdetailing.com or even your local pro detailer.

typing t3hclap into the Glimmer Glass Detailing coupon code will net a discount.

I received a Private Message last night on one of the many forums I frequent and it is a common one. I’ve cropped down the users original question and cleaned up the answer a little.

Quote:

E,

I’m familiar with your setup, the RCIIs look very good on your car.

As you see with the 235/40/18 tire you’ve got a decent amount of room at +45mm offset all around.

Fronts don’t really require a fender roll but if you’re doing it you might as well, to help clearance in the front you can add a little more negative camber (~-1.8 or so would be good).

With a fender roll in the rear you should be able to safely run a 265/35/18 with your 45mm offset wheels.

key word is should, you may have to “pull” or “flare” the rear slightly due to you being on springs and not stiff coilovers. Also, you may need to invest in some rear camber bolts (Ingalls work well) to dial in a little more rear camber to keep the tire away from the fender.

Being an 04 you can’t get around not rolling your fenders, unfortunately you don’t really have a choice there if you want to run wider than a 235 (at your current width/offset/suspension).

which tire were you thinking of running?

a 265/35 is a fairly common size and most Max Performance Summer tires come in that size.

another size to look into is the 255/35/18 (RE01R specifically). This will be better suited to your 8.5″ wheel and will have less rubbing issues in the rear.

now that you know it is possible to make it work, I’ll tell you the downsides of running wider tires.

the bad:

1.) Your car will find every groove in the road and start trying to follow it like a blind dog on a leash. Now it isn’t that bad really, as long as you’re paying attention. (i’m running 265s and -2.9 camber in the front, trust me I know what it’s like ).

2.) you will give up some steering response for the increase in total grip. it’s a trade off that is a hard one to decide if it is worth it or not. the decrease in steering response wont be that much going from 235 to 265 on an 8.5″ wheel, and the ultimate grip wont be that much either, at least not on the street (or canyon). I hope you’re not pushing 10/10ths out on those canyons.

3.) there will be some added roll over which you may or may not notice, it really depends on you as an individual. Some people can tell when their camber is off by a 10th of a degree. I’m not one of those people btw,

the Good:

1.) they’ll look beefy as hell
2.) You will have more grip at the limit if you get there.

The above would also apply to all Base Imprezas and WRXs as well as MY04 STi’s. For a MY05+ STi the tire talk is similar the only real difference is the fender rolling. On a MY05+ STi fender rolling tends to be more complex and it can be easier to actually cut the fender lip off versus rolling it. I will address fender rolling and trimming in a future article. 

 For all Models Suspension does play a roll, I removed the specific suspension in this so it isn’t assumed it will always work.

If there are any specific questions such as this don’t hesitate to email me or shoot me a PM on one of the many forums.

 -t3h_clap

Yes, Low offset wheels hurt your wheel bearings more than stock.

the center line of the wheel being further from hub creates more stress than the stock offset.

is there “proof” of this? is there some mile marker where your bearings will explode if you run a +30mm offset on a Subaru? No.

Are you causing more stress than factory? Yes.

Will you need to replace them earlier? Yes.

I’m more than willing to read a report from someone who has proof of their broken wheel bearing vs. non broken low offset wheel bearing.

You wont see me wasting time figuring out the actual point of where it happens. Low offset wheels increase wear. Either you accept that or you stay with a higher offset wheel. End of Story.

-T3h_Clap

You read correctly, Pastelito Racing took home the Subaru Challenge bragging rights trophy for the 2nd year in a row! 

With our “Fab 4″ doing exceptionally well in their respective classes it would’ve taken a dream team to beat us. 

Kolin (aka: Rankink) got FTD and top Pax for the day and won the opportunity to drive in the National Subaru Run Off sometime in 2008 in a factory prepped MY08 STi!

I was only slightly off pace, but it was enough to bring in 2nd place in BSP and 6th overall Pax.  The 17×10 CCWs and 275/40 V710s did amazing.

JMS put up some strong competition this challenge along with Koby Subaru and Mastro Subaru putting together teams with their top drivers.  Next year is going to be intense and we’re all hoping it isn’t as hot!

Abby’s photography for the event was amazing even through the terrible heat and inclimate weather.  All photos from the event can be seen here.

 The evening ceremony hosted by Subaru and the Buccaneer Region SCCA went on without a hitch and some killer door prizes.

 Some specific setups that should be mentioned are

SOJax/JMS MY05 Impreza WRX STi running 17×9 +43mm 5zigen FN01R-Cs with 275/40 V710s.  Suspension: Megan Track coilovers.  Driven by Bill (Scooby South).  (1st Place BSP, 4th Pax)

Mastro/Wombat Impreza 2.5RS (DSP) running 17×8 +35mm 5zigen FN01R-Cs with 275/40 V710s.  Driven by Josh (Whiteghost). (1st Place DSP, 11th PAX)

Koby Subaru MY04 Impreza WRX (SM) running 17×10 CCW Classics with 295 Hoosier A6s.  Suspension: custom JIC Coilovers.  Driven by Jose (Pacobeagle).  (1st Place SM, 3rd PAX)

[Still looking for photo]  

Mastro/Wombat Impreza H6!! this thing was mean.

Crazy Cracker Racing/Pastelito Racing MY05 Impreza WRX STi (AS) running 17×8 +48mm “unknown” wheels and 275/40/17 V710s driven by Kolin (Rankink).  This is the car that got FTD and he’s STOCK!!  Pastelito Racing FTW!

Pastelito Racing MY05 Impreza WRX STi (BSP) running 17×8 +48mm “unknown” wheels R-comps Suspension: Penguin Garage Breakfast Blend Combo, Whiteline Sway Bars. 

Pastelito Racing MY05 Impreza WRX STi (BSP) running 17×8.5 +48mm “unknown” wheels 245/45/17 V710s. Suspension: STi Pink springs with Cobb Sway Bars (3rd place BSP, 10th Pax)

Wales Garage/Pastelito Racing MY05 Subaru Legacy GT (ESP) running 17×7.5 +53mm STi BBS wheels 245/40/17 Advan A032R.  Suspension: Swift Springs, Tockico Struts, Cusco Bracing and Bars.

Pith Brothers MY06 Impreza WRX STi (SM) running 17×10 +25mm 5zigen FN01R-Cs.

Dynasty Auto/Pastelito Racing MY04 Impreza WRX STi (SM) running 17×10 CCWs and Hoosiers.

There were many other Amazing Setups at this event, which I will explain in more detail later.

Running an Aggressive fitment on an STi isn’t easy but at the same time it isn’t impossible. For autox, track, show, street it is possible to find a wheel and tire combo that will meet the needs you’re looking for.

To run a 9.5″ wheel on an Subaru Impreza WRX STi GDB/F you’ll need the following

Needs

• Coilovers with stiff springs (550/10k+).
• Camber adjustability Front and Rear (preferably with plates and bolts).
• The drive to make these work, this size doesn’t “bolt on” like other sizes.
• A dremel or fender roller or a hammer .
• 5×114.3 hubs are recommended mainly because of their out of the box durability and the wheel choices in 5×114.3 are much better than 5×100.
• Also a 9.5″ wide wheel that clears brembos and has an acceptable offset.

This is a very basic “needs” list, what EXACTLY needs to be done to run an aggressive setup will depend on many different variables.

On to the wheels that are available in 9.5″ that clear brembos.

More will be added as the days go on.

Specific fitment questions should be directed to drew@t3hclap.comas every setup is different and just because they clear brembos and the offset looks good doesn’t mean it will work.

Some wheels are available in custom offsets and widths, but not all. Most 2 and 3 piece wheels can be ordered with custom offsets.

Rays Engineering

Volk Racing RE30
17×9.5 +40mm
18×9.5 +47mm
18×9.5 +40mm
18×9.5 +35mm

Volk Racing TE37
17×9.5 +35mm
17×9.5 +40mm
18×9.5 +40mm
18×9.5 +35mm

Volk Racing CE28N
17×9.5 +47mm
17×9.5 +40mm
18×9.5 +47mm
18×9.5 +40mm
18×9.5 +34mm

Volk Racing Progressiv ME
18×9.5 +36mm

Volk Racing SF-Challenge
19×9.5 +40mm (disk A)

Volk Racing SF-Winning
19×9.5 +44mm (disk A)
19×9.5 +32mm (disk A)

Volk Racing GT-S
19×9.5 +30mm (disk A)
19×9.5 +43mm (disk A)
19×9.5 +40mm (disk B)

Volk Racing GTM
19×9.5 +36mm (disk A)
19×9.5 +33mm (disk B)

Volk Racing GTF
19×9.5 +30mm (disk A)
19×9.5 +42mm (disk A)
19×9.5 +40mm (disk B)

Volk Racing GTV
19×9.5 +30mm (disk A)
19×9.5 +42mm (disk A)

Volk Racing GTC face 1
19×9.5 +33mm (disk A)

Volk Racing GTC face 2
19×9.5 +36mm (disk A)

Volk Racing GT-7
19×9.5 +30mm (disk A)
19×9.5 +42mm (disk A)

gramLights 57F (No Longer in Production)
17×9.5 +38mm
18×9.5 +38mm

gramLights 57-Pro
18×9.5 +30mm (disk A)

gramLights 57S-Pro
18×9.5 +33mm (disk A)

gramLights 57Maximum-Pro
18×9.5 +30mm (disk A)

Yokohama

Advan Racing RS
17×9.5 +35mm
17×9.5 +25mm

Advan Racing RG2
17×9.5 +35mm
17×9.5 +25mm

Connoisseur No.151C
18×9.5 +38mm

Work Wheels

Emotion CR Kai
18×9.5 +30mm

Meister S1 2P
18×9.5 +20mm (T-Disk)

Emotion XT7
18×9.5 +38mm

Emotion XC8
18×9.5 +35mm

SSR

Competition/Type-C
17×9.5 +42mm

Type-F
18×9.5 +40mm

Enkei

NT03+M (May No Longer be in Production)
17×9.5 +44mm
17×9.5 +38mm

RP03
17×9.5 +38mm

GTC-01
17×9.5 +38mm

5zigen

FN01R-C
18×9.5 +35mm
18×9.5 +45mm

The Subaru Challenge is coming to Gainesville, FL on August 25th 2007.

It’s an autox organized by Subaru for the Subaru owner.

Using the common SCCA Solo2 classing structure Subaru Owners compete with similarly prepped Imprezas, Legacys, Outbacks and Foresters.

There is some intense competition at this years event. Teams Pastelito Racing, Jacksonville Mod Squad, and Dead Whorelando all have assembled a team of 5 racers and the each team members fast time will be added to the teams total and the team with the lowest total PAX time wins the “Bragging Rights Trophy”.

I’ve got my bets with Pastelito Racing!

This is the most basic measurement on a wheel.

Simply, wheel diameter is the height of the wheel.

Late Model vehicles don’t generally see smaller than 14″ and can go as high as 20″ from the factory.

Aftermarket wheels generally are going to be larger in diameter than their factory counterparts.

When going to a larger diameter wheel you must also go to a larger diameter tire.

The reasoning for going to a larger diameter wheel is different for different people.

Reasons for changing wheel diameter:

• Looks. Generally speaking a larger wheel looks better than a smaller wheel, of course there are exceptions to this rule. There tend to be more styles of wheels in the larger (17″+) diameters as well.
• Brake Clearance. Larger diameter wheels have more space for larger rotors and larger calipers. When changing wheel diameter be sure the new size will be compatible with your current/future brake setup.
• Tire Selection. Changing wheel diameter can open up access to a larger selection of tire sizes and compounds. When selecting wheel diameter one should also look at available tire sizes and pricing, just because a 255/35 18 is the ideal size in both width and height doesn’t mean it is readily available in all compounds.
• Offset and Width availability. This is my personal favorite reason to change wheel diameter. Some vehicles come equipped with a relatively uncommon wheel diameter. The MY03 WRX is a good example, with a factory size of 16×6.5 and an offset higher than +50mm finding a 16″ wheel with the right width and offset can be difficult. Upgrading to a 17″ wheel allows for more widths and offsets to choose from.

Negative Aspects of Changing Wheel Diameter:

• Weight. Looking at two wheels of the same brand/style/width and offset where the only difference is diameter the larger diameter wheel will weigh more. Weight is the enemy when it comes to performance (handling, acceleration, deceleration). The extra weight can also cause added stress to a vehicle’s braking and suspension systems. When upgrading from a factory wheel it is possible to save weight (even when increasing diameter) if the correct brand/model/size is selected.
• Cost. Changing the diameter from the current size costs money, not only does one need to purchase the new wheels, but the current tires will not work on the new wheels which means it’s time to buy new tires. When upgrading to a larger diameter wheel the tires tend to be more expensive (and they get more and more expensive the larger you go).
• Rubbing.
  • Too big. When increasing wheel diameter it is possible to create rubbing problems that were not there previously. Just because some guy down the street fit 22″ wheels on his monte carlo doesn’t mean they will also fit on your accord coupe*. Increasing wheel diameter without increasing the overall tire diameter is the key, this is accomplished by decreasing the sidewall height of the tire**.
  • Too small. When decreasing wheel diameter it is possible to create rubbing problems on brake and suspension components. Before decreasing wheel diameter be sure the needed clearance is there.
• Availability. When changing wheel diameter the concern of being able to replace the new wheels in the event of an accident or failure one should consider the wheels availability. Is this new diameter a limited edition wheel? Is this new diameter hard to come by? Do I need to wait 10 months for them to come by boat? Are they stocked by my favorite vendor? All of these availability questions can be answered by the company you purchase the wheels from.

*Is it possible to make anything fit? Of course and we will get into model specific fitment at a later date.

**Detailed information on tires will be covered at a later date.

Offset alone is useless.

The combination of wheel diameter, wheel width, offset and disk/face is needed to know fitment.

Offset is the distance between the centerline of the wheel and the hub mounting face.

This distance dictates the wheel’s placement within the wheel well. Offsets are described in three different ways, Positive, Zero and Negative.

Positive Offset: Hub mounting face is on the outside (towards the wheel face) of the wheel centerline.

Zero Offset: Hub mounting face is the wheel centerline.

Negative Offset: Hub mounting face is on the inside of the wheel centerline.

There are other important measurements that include offset. Forward Spacing is the distance from the front of the wheel to the hub mounting face. Backspacing is the distance from the hub mounting face to the inside of the wheel. Both of these measurements are key to calculating fitment.

The manufacture of a given vehicle designed their wheels (offset included) around the chassis, suspension, braking and steering of said vehicle. Changing the offset can lead to problems if it is changed.

The change in offset can be calculated by finding the difference between the offset of the new wheel minus the offset of the factory wheel. When this number is large side effects start to become apparent.

Simply, when the difference in offset is positive the wheel will sit further in the wheel wells. When the difference in offset is negative the wheel will be pushed further outward.

This is the effects of offset very simply, ignoring wheel width can lead to serious problems. DO NOT LOOK AT ONLY ONE MEASUREMENT, all measurements of a wheel are key and must be considered when purchasing a new wheel.

Knowing the potential side effects of changing the offset drastically is key.

Potential Side Effects of drastically changing offset.

Rubbing:

• On suspension components
  • Springs
  • Struts
  • Control arms
  • Trailing arms
• On body panels
  • Fenders
  • Fender liners
  • Bumpers
  • Sideskirts
• On brakes
  • Calipers
  • Rotors

Knowing your clearances to all of these components is key before purchasing or deciding on a given offset.

I will be going into detail on specific models.

• Acceptable Offsets
• Acceptable Diameters
• Acceptable Widths

Math Explained:

Offset is generally measured in millimeters (mm) although converting an offset from inches (in) to millimeters (mm) is very simple. mm = in * 25.4

Change in Offset = New wheel offset* – Factory wheel offset*

Wheel Width in mm’s = Wheel Width in inches * 25.4

Centerline in mm’s = Wheel Width / 2

Backspacing in mm’s = Centerline + Offset* + 12.7

Forward spacing in mm’s = Centerline – Offset* + 12.7

*this formula applies for both Positive and Negative offsets, use the appropriate sign for a given offset to calculate both back and forward spacing.

I am t3h_Clap

Hopefully t3h wheel33tist in me will subside long enough for me to create a few unbiased tech articles.

I’ve got a laundry list of articles that I will be compiling here for the masses.

The coming weeks I will start rolling them out, stay tuned.

If there are any specific questions on fitment or availability don’t hesitate to shoot me an email.

SSKBOFFS are coming soon! Keep your eyes open for them.

Hi Sharpshooter.